Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Pentair Purex Triton 2000 SMBW Filter Lid Stuck

Pentair Purex Triton 2000 SMBW Filter Lid Stuck

This write up covers a Purex Triton 2000 SMBW filter with a top (lid) that is stuck onto the filter body. Or how to remove top of Pentair filter written by
Even under ideal conditions, it can be difficult to remove these tops. Over time, the gasket under the lid can expand, increasing the difficulty of removal.
(Click on any picture to see a larger version)

Note: What you don’t want to do is to remove the filter band and then turn back on the system, hoping the water will push the lid off. Under pressure, the lid would fly off, damaging anything in the area and/or causing injury to anyone near the filter.

The easiest way to remove the lid is to use two flat head screwdrivers.  This method will be described below.

Note: Using the screwdrivers to remove the lid may damage the existing gasket. For this reason, having a new gasket on hand for this specific model is recommended.

The goal is to slowly move the lid up and off, not to remove it in one try.

First, remove the filter band by unscrewing the bolt holding it on and then pull the band up and off.

Push the end of one of the screwdrivers under the lid and between the lid and the filter.

Push the screwdriver up and in as far in as possible. Then, twist the handle 90 degrees.

Go to the far side of the filter and repeat the same procedure. Then, repeat this, going around the filter. Each time, a little more of the gasket under the lid should be visible.

Sometimes, you will need to leave a screwdriver in and twisted. Then, using a second flat head screwdriver, use the same procedure near the existing one to move the lid up.

Repeat the steps until the lid can be pulled up and off of the filter.

Check the gasket for damage. It is recommended to replace this gasket after opening the lid even without any visible damage.

Note: This can be a slow process, especially if the gasket has expanded. Take your time and inch the lid up and off.

Monday, May 13, 2013

4 Wheel Pool Cleaner With Back Wheel Broken

4 Wheel Pool Cleaner With Back Wheel Broken

This article will discuss the “The Pool Cleaner” by Poolvergnuegen automatic cleaners when one or more of the back wheels have come off, or the back wheels have broken at the securing screw.
(Click on any image to see a larger version)

Only on the 4 wheeled versions of these cleaners can the rear wheels pull out the bolt holding them to the unit dragging the wheel behind. The official fix for this is to replace the lower frame section of “The Pool Cleaner” (with part number 896584000-693) but this part alone is in the $200-400 price range.
 (pic of 2 wheeled version borrowed from homesuppliesandmore)

Note: This is not a write up on how to fix any Pool Cleaner with this rear wheel problem; this is a write up on how we fixed a specific Pool Cleaner with this issue. There is no guarantee that this will work for any other cleaner. Note that doing this fix will void any warranty still left on the Pool Cleaner.

Since the frame on this unit already needed to be replaced, there was no harm in trying to repair the cleaner with spare parts.

Parts needed
1 - 5/16 Lock Washer
4 - 5/16 Flat Washers
1 - 5/16 Nylon Lock Nut
1 - 5/16 2.5 inch Long Cap Screw

Tools needed
5/16 drill bit with power drill
1/2 inch socket wrench
1/2 inch open end wrench

The wheel with the broken bolt needs to be removed. To do this, first unscrew the 3 screws on the top of the cleaner and then pull the top shell up and off the cleaner.

With the shell removed, the damaged wheel can now be pulled out.

Pull the existing screw and nut out of the wheel. Both should freely move in and out (which is why the fix is needed).

Drilling the hole for the new bolt
The amount of space in between the other tire and the damaged wheel hub that needs to be drilled is to small fit an electric drill. However, the plastic in the hub is a thin plastic.
On the drill bit, we had to use the tip with a fine point. We were able to manually push the bit into the existing nut hole and twist the bit until the bit tip made an indent on the opposite side of the hub.

With this small indent now showing the exact middle of the existing nut hole, we had a reference point to drill from the outside to get a perfect hole through the hub’s existing nut hole.

Setting the new bolt
Place the new bolt with one flat washer already on it through wheel with the bolt hex end and washer on the outside of the tire.

Place the tire back into its normal position with the center bolt going through the new hold we just drilled and the wheel gear going in to the wheel gear set.

Use 3 flat washers, 1 lock washer, then the lock nut on the exposed bolt end (pic only shows 1 flat washer).

Using the socket and open end wrench, tighten the lock nut.

Note: The Pool Cleaner felt  flimsy while trying to tighten the nut. The nut was slowly and carefully tightened.

Place the top shell back on the Pool Cleaner. Then, screw the 3 screws back in to secure the top to the body.

The total cost was just under $6 since we already had the wrenches and drill bit. This was the first time we tried this fix so there is no information on how long it holds or possible problems that could come up from how it was done.