Sunday, March 9, 2014

Replacing Hayward H-Series Front Panel

This will cover replacing a Hayward H-Series front control bezel assembly (Manufacturer part number IDXL2BKP1930).

Note: This will not be a how to guide; instead it is a description of how we did this specific job. If you need to do any repairs on a swimming pool heater, always follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer.

Some heaters (Pentair, Raypak, and Jandy) have plastic UV shields that protect keypads and system LEDs from the elements; heaters that don’t (like the Hayward below) can suffer from weather damage, as shown in the pictures.


This H-Series heater in this article had a control panel that was so badly damaged the buttons stopped responding to touch.

The new panel, as seen below, has a circuit board connector cable connected to it. Once the cable is plugged in, any of the buttons pressed sends a signal to the circuit board. The lights and LED screen are part of the circuit board - not the replacement panel.


There are four Philips-head screws holding the old panel to the heater, so all four must be removed.

The panel can now be pulled forward away from the heater. A flathead screw driver can be used to pry the two apart.


The connecting ribbon must be pulled from the old front panel and out of the circuit board.

There are two Philips-head screws holding the circuit board to the old panel. These must be removed to separate the two.

The smaller green circuit board needs to be detached from the old front panel. There are just four plastic snaps holding it together. Push one side out, and then pull that half of the small board up and away to release it.

Here you can see the old panel next to the new replacement panel.

Note: The new replacement had two small pillars in the middle of each side that stopped new cover from sitting flat against the heater. I cut these off with wire cutters to make the new cover fit correctly. The newer models of H-Series heaters may have two additional screws to attach the panel to the heater.

The new panel was placed on the old circuit board, and then it was attached using the original Philips-head screws.

Now the LED screen on the small green circuit board needs to be pressed down and locked into position.

The new panel can now be pushed back into position on the front of the heater. The original four screws were then used to hold the new panel in place.

This specific H-Series heater had its LED display damaged while the circuit board was exposed to the elements. The old panel was so damaged that water could get into the heater and on the electronics. While the heater would work (heated water) in its current condition, the display is unreadable.

Supplemental pictures of changing an automatic water fill.

Supplemental pictures of changing an automatic water fill.
Here are a few additional pictures of a swimming pool automatic water fill being replaced. This is meant to be used for additional reference.
The original post with more detailed pictures is found here

A short video of the original water fill that is broke (it never stops adding water).
video

The original float still installed.

Two new auto fill floats, one of each size (3/8” and ½” ) next to the original float.

New float installed.

video