Monday, October 27, 2014

Fix a Two-Wheel Pool Cleaner Gear


This will cover how to fix a two-wheel pool cleaner (by Pool Vergnuegen) where the wheels turns freely without moving the turbine. Written by us at Wine Country Pools in Temecula. This is how we did this specific fix and not meant and a how to guide.

Parts used:
-Phillips head screwdriver
-Hex key or Allen wrench or Allen key
-Pool cleaner gear part # 896584000-471 (reduction gear)


Before opening the cleaner, check that this is not a wheel hub problem. See our previous post here on checking and replacing a wheel hub.

There are a set of four gears that turn the right wheel. If any one of these wear down from normal use, then the wheels disconnect from the main turbine. To determine which of these is bad, the cover first needs to be removed.

Locate and remove the three Phillips head screws directly on top of the pool cleaner.

After they have been removed, the top half shell of the cleaner can be pulled straight up and off of the cleaner body.

The center cone can also now be pulled straight up and off, exposing the turbine.

To free up some room inside the cleaner, the blades of the cleaner should be removed. Move the turbine around and when a blade is at the top, slide it out of its space.

Once all of the blades have been removed, inspect the gears in the unit.

The two gears that connect the turbine to the gear drive are the same model gear.
In this case, one looks different since one has been worn down.

To replace this gear, the pin holding it in needs to be removed. Using an Allen wrench from the inside (side with the turbine), tap the pin out.


With the pin moved over, the old gear can now be removed.

A comparison of the new and old gears is shown below.

Place the new gear in the old gear’s position. The Allen wrench will be used again to move the pin back in place.



A short video of the gears now moving when the wheels move.
video

The turbine blades need to be put back in. Note that the largest end connects directly to the turbine and they fold towards the front of the cleaner.


Place the cone back on the cleaner, lining up the three screws’ holes.

The top shell can now be placed back on the cleaner. (This will only fit in one direction.)



Friday, June 20, 2014

Replacing a swimming pool AMF Paragon Timer

This was written by us at Wine Country Pools & Supplies of Temecula California, our main site can be found here.
This write-up will cover replacing a broken AMF Paragon mechanical timer with a direct fit replacement “Multiple Controls Replacement” switch from Precision with manufacturer’s model number CD 104-PC.


The Paragon timer setup (especially the new replacement model) looks similar to the more common Intermatic mechanical timers, but they are not interchangeable. The housing fittings on the left side of the timers were made for one type of attachment and will not work on each other’s housing. 
Notice the different sizes of the metal "hooks" on the left side of each below.

The most common mechanical pool timer is the Intermatic T104M as shown below.
If you have an Intermatic time clock and want to see one replaced, our previous article doing just that can be found here.

Before starting this install, the main breakers for the pool equipment are turned off.

After confirming the power is off at the timer, the plastic cover over the exposed wires just under the old timer is removed.


Since this is a 220V setup, there are two power wires coming in with a single ground wire.

Note: Whoever had previously installed this time clock did not connect the ground to the timer; instead, it only passed though the box to the pump. This was a mistake on their part as every mechanical timer should have a ground wire connected directly to it.

Note: When moving the wires from the old timer to the new timer it is important to note that the order of wires is not the same. On the old timer the incoming hot wires are 1 and 4 and on the new timer they are 1 and 3.

Each wire is held in with a single screw. Once loosened with a Phillips-head screwdriver, the wire can be pulled out of the old timer and into the new timer.


To remove the old timer, on the far right is a metal clip.
This is pushed to the right, away from the clock. Now the right side of the timer can be pulled forward. The left side is sitting in two grooves that will pull out as the right side is moved forward.

To insert the new timer in the old housing, on the left side of the timer are two metal ends that will fit into two holes on the old housing. Line these up and push the timer into them.

Once the left side is in, the right side is pushed back in, locking the timer into place.

An extra piece of wire is used to connect the time lock to the ground wire.

After all wires are transferred over and the new clock is in place, the plastic cover that came with the clock is placed over the exposed wires.

The on and off switches are attached to the dial to the desired times.

The power is turned on at the breakers and the timer is tested.


Wednesday, May 28, 2014

Spa Draining Addendum A Leaking 3 Port Vavle

This is meant as an addendum to the previous article "Why does my Spa Drain" that can be found here

Click on any picture to see a larger version.
Although unlikely it is possible for water to flow through a closed three-way valve with or without an actuator attached. This happens when the raised rubber seal breaks or becomes deformed, allowing water to flow past a closed seal. On a perfectly working system, when the system is turned off there should be no sounds coming from the pipes.

I have only seen this happen twice and each time was with a Waterway TruSeal 3 port valve.

Below is a picture of a valves insides that allowed water to pass through even when closed.

The rubber seal around the edge has torn.

The fix is to replace the insides of the valve. Once the screws holding the top are removed, the top plate can be pulled up and off.


A new TruSeal valve is shown below


Saturday, May 24, 2014

Changing A Jandy Swimming Pool Light Bulb

This is a write up covering how we changed the light bulb on a Jandy pool light (Jandy part number WPHV500WS100, also known as Jandy Pro Series Large White Light) and a Jandy White small light. These are similar and the steps below will sometimes show both in the same steps for clarity.

Three of the largest swimming pool light manufacturers are Pentair, Hayward and Jandy. The process of changing a light bulb in a swimming pool/spa varies between these different manufacturers. We have a previous write-up on the Pentair Amerlites that can be found here

Most lights can be identified visually through the water without opening the light fixture. Jandy lights have a smooth rim with oval-shaped holes around the middle of the rim.

Starting:
The breaker to the pool and spa lights needs to be turned off before doing anything with the lights.

To get access to the bulb, the light fixture needs to first be removed; this is held in with a single Phillips-head screw located at the top of the rim of the light.

Most fixtures can be removed by reaching into the water and removing this screw with just a screwdriver. In certain cases someone will need to get in the water to remove this screw.

If a spa is connected to a swimming pool (and higher than the pool), the spa can be drained into the pool using the filter pump to gain access to the spa light fixture.



Once the single top screw is removed, the light can be pulled out to either the pool deck or spa seat (if it’s the spa light).

Notice the sticker marking the top of the light fixture with the securing screw hole directly above it.
This will be important later when reassembling the fixture.

The Jandy lights use a plastic clamp assembly held down with 6 screws. These were removed with a Phillips-head screwdriver.



Once removed, the front steel face ring can be pulled off from the light fixture.


Clamp assembly removed from the fixture.


The lens can now be pulled away and off of the fixture. A flathead screwdriver was used in this specific case to wedge the lenses out of position.


(Pool)



(Spa)

The light bulb is now accessible and can be removed.

A standard 500W 120V swimming pool floodlight was used for the pool light.



 A 39W 120V medium base halogen light (part number PAR20) was used for the spa light.

Note: Once the new bulb is in, now is the time to test the new light bulb; however, only leave it on long enough to check if it comes on correctly or not. These lights are water-cooled and are not meant to be used out of the water for an extended period of time.

The lens gasket needs to be replaced whenever the light fixture is opened.
Pool light gasket part number: R0451101

Spa light gasket part number: R0400501

Note the two sides of the gasket. One side has a raised bump and the other is straight flat edge. The new gasket will need to be installed exactly like this one is shown here.

The old gasket can be pulled off of the lens.

Always replace the gasket.

The gasket has two sides: One has a straight edge.

The other side has a bump.

The new gasket is pulled over the edge of the lens. There is a raised bump on one side of the gasket; this should face back towards the light.


The lens and light fixture need to be pressed together. The top center screw hole on the outer steel face ring needs to line up with the top position of the fixture marked by the sticker around the outside.


Now the plastic clamp assembly needs to be lined up with the back of the fixture with the clamp opening at the top and held in position with the 6 original screws.

(Spa)




(Pool)

The fully assembled light fixture needs to be placed back into the pool/spa wall.
The extra cord can be wrapped around the light fixture and pushed into place with the top (noted by the screw hole on the face ring and sticker around the fixture base) up towards the sky as shown below.

A single screw is used to hold the fixture in place.


Note: Whether you are leaning over into the pool or completely in it, getting this screw into the correct position and started can be difficult. Patience is a virtue.