Wednesday, March 7, 2012

How to clean a Purex Triton 4000 Series filter

The following is a guide on how to clean a Purex (Pentair) Triton 4000 Series filter. This will be similar to the much more general and common ProGrid DE filter (link to other entry). The Triton 4000 series stray from the norm in a few areas that will be pointed out as we go along.

What you need to clean this filter:
DE (diatomaceous earth)

What you may need:
A filter lubricant (see picture) (Magic Lube II in the example)
A flat head screwdriver

Turn off the system, ideally switching the breaker to the pump off.
Open the air relief valve on the top of the filter to begin releasing pressure.

Opening the filter:
The Triton series filter comes with a handle called a plastic knob attached to the bolt holding the band onto the middle of the filter (see picture). Unscrew this handle counter clockwise until the bolt pulls off completely.

Note: Take a mental image of how close far the handle is screwed on. After everything is complete, you will want to screw the bolt back on to this same amount.

Once the bolt is removed, the band can be pulled off the filter.

The top of the filter can be pulled up and off the filter to expose the girds. If the top cannot be removed, make sure that the air relief has been opened to equalize pressure. If the lid still will not budge, a large flat head screwdriver should be used to pry the top of the lid off of the bottom half.

Removing the grids:
If you have seen the inside of any other DE filter model, you will notice that the inside of the Triton looks upside down. The manifold on the Triton 4000 and the 2000 series filters is on the bottom instead of the much more common style of on top.

Begin by unscrewing the wing nut at the top securing the “Holding Wheel” to the filter set (see picture). Remove this and the washer underneath it.

Pull the “Holding Wheel” up and off.

Each grid can now be individually pulled up and out of the filter one at a time.

If you are only cleaning the grids, you should hose the dirt off of each grid.

In this case, I am replacing all grids due to their damage. If there is a grid with even one hole or tear, the entire set should be replaced. The grids are all under equal pressure and exposed to the same level of chemicals. Therefore, if one grid is visibly damaged, it must be assumed that all of the others are also either damaged or severely weakened.

Determining what size grid you need:
Check the outside of your filter to see if the filter size has been marked. While most filters have an area printed to display size, only some actually have the size listed here since it was done by hand at the factory.
You can measure your grid once outside of the filter to determine its size. Measure the grid from end to end (see picture). Now double this number. That is the size of your grid. The universal sizes are 24, 36, 48, 60 and 72. For example, if you measure 30 inches (see picture), then your filter needs 60 sq ft. grids.  
Note that unlike almost all other DE filter systems, all 8 grids are of equal size in this filter. There is no short grid in the 2000 or 4000 system. This makes sense since there is no pipe assembly connecting the bottom of the filter to the manifold at the top of the filter.

Also take notice of the connecting end of each grid (see picture). This is also different from every other grid type.

When buying grids for either the 2000 or 4000 series filter, always tell the sales associate if you have either the Triton 2000 or the Triton 4000 filter because the grids are different from everything else.

Cleaning out the inside of the filter:
Unlike most other filter models, there is no drain plug in the 2000 or 4000 filter systems. The easiest way to clean out the bottom half of the filter is to run a hose into the tank bottom until the water overflows and brings the dirt out with it.

Reassembling the grid set:
This is the most difficult step on every other DE filter and the easiest on the 2000 and 4000 filter series systems. Place each grid one at a time into the filter, fitting the grid connector pointed down into the bottom manifold openings. The grids will only sit down firmly  one way (see picture). Insert all 8 grids into the filter. (See picture)
Place the “Bottom Wheel” on the top of the grids and into the long center rod (see picture). The wheel should sit flat on the grids, holding each grid in place. Note that each section outside of the grid should be held on by the wheel (see picture).

Place the washer back on the rod and then screw the wing nut back on the rod holding the wheel down and onto the grids (see picture).

Closing the filter:
Place the top half the filter back on the bottom half. The top should sit almost completely over the rubber gasket. In my case, the gasket had expanded and since I did not have a new gasket on, I had to use a filter lubricant (Magic Lube II in this case) to get the top half to sit down correctly (see picture).

Note: When using a lubricant, it is recommend that a filter lubricant be used since it has already been tested and will not damage the rubber gasket.

Place the metal band around the mid-section of the filter. The connecting threaded end should stick out far enough to attach the bolt and screw on. If it does not, then the filter top is not sitting far enough down and needs to be push down further. I suggest using a filter lubricant first. Then, if it still will not reach, sometimes the band can be hammered in which will pull the top half down (see picture).
It is hard to say how much to tighten this bolt, as it should only be hand tight but still needs to be tight enough to resist the normal high pressure encountered when the system is running. It is best to have noted how far it was screwed on before it was first removed.

Restarting the system:
Note: This next part is potentially dangerous. Starting up the pump while the filter top is not fastened down could cause the lid to be blown off and can injure persons nearby. Double check that the band is in place and properly tightened. Proceed with caution.

Turn on the pump motor.

Once the system has caught prime, open the top air relief valve to let the air out of the system.
While the system is running, check for leaks around the band.
If there is a water leak, turn off the system and tighten the band’s bolt. Now restart the system.
If the system still leaks, add the DE and then recheck for leaks as sometimes the DE will fill small gaps and stop the leak.
If the old band was used, then changing to a new band may stop the system from leaking. It is also possible that either the top or bottom half may have become deformed/disfigured so much that there is no way to stop a leak from the band area.

Add the DE to the system while the pump is running and primed. See the directions on the bag of DE to determine the amount you need.


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