Replacing The Caulking Around A Pool

Introduction

This walkthrough will cover the steps we took while replacing the caulking around a pool.
This is not meant as a complete set of instructions on how to remove and replace caulking or how to use Deck O Seal. It is meant as an additional reference to their products included instructions for anyone attempting to replace their own pool deck caulking. If you are unsure about doing any of this yourself then don’t hesitate to hire a professional.

The caulking of a pool is a flexible material that allows the concrete next to a pool to move a small amount without creating a gap that allows water to flow in between. Over time the caulking can dry, crack or break, creating openings for water. If water gets between the pool and the concrete it can cause the ground to become soft and the concrete to move up or down next to the pool.

The entire process of removing and then pouring takes hours and should be started and finished in the same day, since removing the existing caulking leaves that area vulnerable to water.

What you will need to follow our steps

- A caulking/coping product (I used Deck-O-Seal) - the amount you need depends on the area you will be covering

- A household-style broom

- A small brush or small broom

- A flat head screw driver (to open the caulking containers)

- Linoleum knife (also known as a Vinyl knife)

What you might need

- A pair of work gloves

- A bottle of Acetone

- Outdoor kneepads

- Scissors

1) Removing the existing caulking

Firstly, the old caulking needs to be removed. Use the Linoleum knife to cut both sides, and then pull the caulking out.

Note 1: Do this step for the entire pool before anything else, but do not do sections at a time. The caulking will start to dry as soon as it is mixed, so once the caulking is mixed the entire pool should be prepped and ready. 

Note 2: If any section of caulking needs to be redone then redo the entire pool. The color will probably not match if only a section is replaced, and if the caulking broke in one area then all of the caulking could be ready to crack/break since it will have all been subjected to similar conditions.

Usually there is either foam or sand underneath the old caulking.

For the moment leave whatever is underneath alone and only remove the old caulking. Keep these removed pieces as they might be needed later.

2) Leveling the area that the new caulking will sit in

The space between the pool and the concrete next to it needs to be a quarter inch valley from the top of the line of the pool. 

If there are any holes or gaps in this area then the new caulking will drain through this and not settle down correctly. If there are any gaps use sand to fill them, leveling out the space to the correct depth.

It is possible that a gap is too deep to be plugged with sand, in this case use a small piece of the old caulking to plug this gap then pour sand over that.

This valley area needs to be clean, anything poking up (old caulking left stuck to the side or bottom or foam at the bottom of the valley that was used originally to create the proper depth for the caulking) can poke up though the new caulking while it is drying. Make sure this valley is clear and is the proper depth.

Use a brush or small broom to help level out the sand.

3) Prepare the new caulking mixture

We used Deck-O-Seal for this job, if you have a different product your steps will vary. Always follow the instructions that come with your mixture.

In the Deck-O-Seal box are two containers of caulking mixtures, a pour bottle, instructions and a wood mixer.

Pour the small container into the gallon sized container.

Both have a thick texture. Scoop out as much as you can from the small container to the large container.

Mix with the included wooden mixer for 10 minutes. While mixing be sure to push along the sides of the gallon container to mix both of the chemicals completely together.

4) Pour the caulking from the gallon container to the application bottle

Slowly pour the newly mixed caulking to the provided bottle.

This can be a messy process, so pour over a tarp or something similar.

Attach the top to the bottle. Cut the top of the bottle (with the Linoleum knife or a pair of scissors) at a 45 degree angle; this will help you to pour in a consistent way.

Place the top back on to the gallon sized container. This will prevent items from blowing inside and hopefully slow the drying process of the unused caulking until more is needed.

5) Pouring new caulking around the pool

The new caulking should settle between the pool and the concrete next to it, not over them. Slowly squeeze the bottle allowing a small amount of caulking to be released while moving along the already prepared valley around the pool.

Notice that the caulking sits in the valley, not over lapping either the pool or the concrete side.

If any caulking drips onto the deck, use acetone to clean it up while it is still wet.

Go as far as you can with the bottle, then refill for the leftovers still in the gallon container. There is about 2.5 to 3 bottles worth of caulking per one gallon container.

If you run out prepare another gallon using the same steps you used to make the first and repeat as necessary.

Each prepared gallon is expected to be good to use for about one hour (at 77 degrees Fahrenheit) after it is mixed. After that it will be too solid to be poured.

6) (optional step) Apply sand to the newly poured caulking

I have noticed that not everyone does this. We always do so I am including it in this walkthrough.

Apply a small amount of sand to the still-wet, newly poured caulking. Doing this give the caulking a grain-like texture that better matches most concrete textures.

7) Letting the caulking dry

It will take about 24 hours to dry assuming ideal warm weather (77 degrees Fahrenheit or above) conditions. After the 24 hour period check the caulking; it should be firm and not feel tacky. If it has not finished drying give it another 24 hours.

Once dry, sweep up the remaining sand from around the pool with a standard house broom.

Note: Do not sweep the sand while the caulking is wet or tacky, as this will cause the caulking to streak and/or leave broom gashes in the caulking.

(after pics)

Final notes

There is no way to know how long caulking will last before it cracks or breaks up. It will depend on weather conditions and the soil underneath the concrete/pool. Also, it should be noted that it is possible that the ground is soft and the concrete will move causing gaps, regardless of the quality/state of the caulking.

Wine Country Pools & Supplies

Swimming Pool Algae Removal

Algae  can appear in any pool or spa. They prefer to bloom in shadows but can grow anywhere underwater. Brushing algae alone may not be enough to kill them so I will list here the various steps we use for removing algae.

Note that two different types of algaecides are used. This is done to ensure that the algae are removed in a timely fashion. In most cases, we are hired to remove algae in a pool or spa that we have not had any previous experience with. Our goal is to remove the algae as quickly as possible.

What I used (What you would need to follow the same procedure)

1) A Chlorine and Acid test kit

2) 3 gallons of liquid Chlorine

3) 1 Gallon of liquid Acid

4) Swimtrine Plus Algaecide

5) EZ Clor EZ Clor Granular Algae Out

6) A swimming pool pole

7) Swimming pool net

8) Swimming pool brush (at least one, I used two)

9) Diatomaceous Earth (DE) (Since this pool filter was a DE filter)

1) Check chemicals.

Check the chlorine and PH levels with any standard swimming pool test kit. The chlorine should be at least 3.0 and the PH around 7.2.

Use liquid chlorine to raise chlorine levels and liquid acid to lower PH levels since liquids are the fastest to dissolve in water. (Not sure aboutPH levels? See our PH/Alkalinity guide.)

2) Skim the water of debris.

Skim the leaves with a swimming pool net, branches, grass, palms and any other debris out of the water. These can dissolve into the water, leaving phosphates and/or nitrates behind for the algae to consume.

I use a slit net that catches much smaller pieces of debris. However, this net is more expensive than the average net and is more difficult to maneuver around the water because of its smaller net holes.

3) Use algaecide.
Next, use a liquid copper based algaecide. It won’t get caught in a skimming net and dissolves quickly in the water. Swimtrine Plus was used for this specific job.

4) Brush pool/spa.

Algae has layers and if left alone, the algaecide would need to pass though each layer. When algae are brushed, the layers are reduced, allowing easier access for the algaecide.

I use two swimming pool brushes, a small brush to get in corners, between rock fixtures, and around steps and then a large brush for the sides and floor.

5) Skim again.

Brushing the floor and walls usually stirs up previously unseen debris. These should now be removed from the water.

6) Use second algaecide.

Now, apply a chorine based granular algaecide around the pool/spa. This algaecide will sit an area and slowly dissolve. This is great for concentrating the algaecide on or near algae. I use a chlorine based algaecide since it will also boost the chlorine levels in the water. Since the PH was also just balanced, we know that the chlorine will be at its peak effectiveness. A potassium or bromine based algaecide could also be used, but we stick to what we already know works well.

7) Wait.

The pool/spa needs to filter. Ideally, the system should run constantly for 24-48 hours. The water needs to circulate to mix chemicals and the filter needs to be filtering out dead algae from the water. The pool/spa will change colors from green to grey to clear. The gray is dead algae that will need to be filtered out.

In some cases, the system will be so clogged with algae that it will stop pushing water. The filter will need to be cleaned now and then again after the dead algae is removed from the water.

48 hours later

At this point, the majority of algae will be removed from the water.

8) Clean the filter.

It is now time to clean the filter. In this case, it was a Pentair Quad Filter.

If you need to see a more detailed description of how to do this, see our cleaning filter walkthroughs.

How to clean a Purex Triton 4000 Series DE filter

How to Clean a Hayward ProGrid DE Filter

9) Balance chemicals.

Recheck the chemicals. The chlorine levels will probably be low (under 3.0) from killing algae and the PH will have also dropped below 7.2 from the low PH of granular algaecide.

Use liquid chlorine for raising chlorine levels and soda ash for raising PH levels.

10) Brush pool/spa for the last time.

Check walls and floor; the pool/spa may need to be brushed to remove any remaining dead algae or even vacuumed depending on what your water currently looks like.

There is no way to prevent algae from ever appearing, however keeping the chemicals strong and the pool filtering long enough each day go a long way in keeping algae blooms down to a minimum.

How to drain a pool:

How to drain a pool:

Before starting, check with your local authorities on local laws pertaining to draining a pool.

Different counties and even cities have different laws when it comes to draining a pool. Start with code enforcement since they would be in charge of enforcing these laws or a local pool service professional as they would also know the local codes.

What you will need:

- A pool/spa submersible (sump) pump (This one is a Little Giant 6E-CIA-SFS)

- A pool hose (do not connect a discharge house directly to the pump)

What you might need in addition to the above items:

- Power extension cord (if the sump pump cord is not long enough to reach the power socket while in the pool)

- A discharge hose (length depends on how far you will need to extend the pool hose to move the water to an appropriate location)

- One or more clamps and hex head screw driver to tighten them (see picture)

Getting started:

Turn off the breakers for the pool, including all the pumps and lights.

Next, turn off the automatic water fill if your pool has one.

If you have a automatic fill like the one above the shut off should be somewhere near the pool in the backyard. It looks like a water line with a shut off valve.

Getting the sump pump ready:

The pump will have a power cord and should have a rope connected to the top of the pump. This rope is what you will use to pull the pump underwater and into position. This prevents damage to the power cord when lowering or raising the pump from the pool. If no rope comes attached, it is highly recommended that you attach your own, as this will greatly prolong the life of the pump.

Check to see if the power cord is long enough to reach from the bottom of the pool to the electrical socket. If not, use an extension cord to extend the line. Tie the extension cord to the power cord to prevent a disconnection.

Attach one end of the pool hose to the pump.

Use a clamp to secure the hose to the pump.

Placing the pump:

Using the rope, lower the pump down into the pool. The pump should sit in the lowest section of the pool surface. This is usually near the main drain(s).

Secure the end of the rope to something around the deck, as it will be needed to remove the pump from the pool once it is empty.

Leave some extra pool hose in the pool. As the water drops, the pool hose will also drop into the pool and if there is not enough slack in the hose, the pump will fall to its side, potentially stopping the pump.

Placing the hose:

Check with the local authorities before attempting to drain the water.

A discharge hose might be needed to extend the pool hose. Overlap the discharge hose over the pool hose as far as you can and then use a clamp to secure them. (One clamp is all that is needed)

The benefit of using a discharge hose is that this hose can be cut to the needed length.

The average pool contains 15,000 to 30,000 gallons of water.

Where to direct the water depends on your situation. The most common will be to run the hose around the house down the driveway to the curb.

The hose should extend all the way to the curb, if the water hits any grass or dirt, it can cause a large amount of erosion.

Sometimes, it is possible to drain the water into an open field if the property is large enough. If you are considering this, then first remove the free chlorine from the water before starting this method.

Ready to drain and what to expect:

You can now power on the pump. It is difficult to say how long it will take drain a pool. Assume that it may take as long 24 hours.

Immediately after turning on the pump, watch the water flow. See where it is going and if it is flowing out and away or stuck flooding in one area,  the hose may need to be moved.

Keep an eye pump and hose throughout the process. It is possible for the pump to fall over and stop pumping. In some cases, the hose can even burst or break loose from any connecting extenders, causing a massive amount of flooding. Having someone home to watch the pump is recommended.

After the pump stops:

No pump will remove 100% of the water. The pump will stop when its water level indicator tells the pump to stop. (This is commonly a float attached to an arm; when the water level drops, the arms drops as well, shutting of the pump to prevent over heating since these are water cooled.) This is different for each pump, and in some cases, after the pump has stopped, the pump can be manually started by holding the water level indicator in the up/on position to remove more water.

How much water you need to remove will depend on your reason for draining the pool. To remove all of the water, someone will need to get into the pool with a bucket and some towels and manually remove the remaining water that the pump would not.

Removing the pump:

Pull the pump out of the pool using the rope connected to the pump.  Do not pull by the power cord.

Once the pump is completely out, remove the clamp holding the hose to the pump. Then, pull off the hose.

You have now successfully drained your pool.