A message on cleaning Hayward cartridge systems:

A message on Hayward cartridge systems:

I have found a common mistake that is easy to make when reassembling Hayward Swimclear cartridge filter systems.

The “Top Closure Plate” that sits on the four inserted cartridges does specify up and down positions but is easy to miss.

Note: If this “Top Closure Plate” is inserted upside down, dirt will flow in and then out of the filter system.

How to identify top from bottom:

The top has four cylinder shaped ends with straight top edges. There is also a break in each. These longer tops (longer than the bottom) are meant to push against the filter lid holding the filter cartridges down and in place even under pressure.

The bottom has four smaller (smaller than the top side) cylinder shaped ends with curved in top edges. It is these curved edges that help the closure plate to be inserted to each filter top. (The pictures below show the plate upside down)

Because these ends were meant to fit in tight (to create a seal not allowing water to pass between the plate and the cartridges) you may need something to hammer each side in place. 

If the closure plate is not correct, the filter will not filter the pool water. 

How to fix a leaking pool filter

How to fix a leaking filter

This does not cover a leak at the inlet or outlet ports, at the pressure or air relief valve, or a crack in one of the main tanks. Written by www.WCPandS.com

This is a guide on fixing a leaking filter around the band or lid area and only this area.

The way the tank o-ring works is that the top and bottom half of the filter are pressed together with a rubber gasket in between them. When the filter band is tightened, a waterproof seal is created which should hold back water from leaking, even under the high pressure of a running filter.

A list of things to try will be given; try them in order, as I will go from easiest to most extreme to stop the leak.

Note: Some leaks will stop on their own. This happens when there is a small area allowing not only water to pass though but also dirt to be pushed though the filter as the pump. The dirt fills this gap, eventually stopping the leak.

Note: if the area around where the o-ring sits has cracked or a part has broken off, it may not be possible to stop the leak. One of the two halves or the entire filter will need to be replaced in this case.

1) Tighten the band around the filter

While the pump is off, tighten the band around the filter (or clamp assemblies). While rare, the lid may have loosened and slid further down on to the bottom half during normal pump operation.

Note: Over tightening can strip the blots/screws or bend the bolt. (See pic below)

Turn back on the pump and check for leaks.

2) Clean the Filter o-ring section and the band bolt

With the pump turned off, remove the band and then the tank lid.

Clean the area around where the o-ring sits, including the o-ring itself.

Clean the area of the lid and the area on the lower tank that will cover the o-ring while in place.

Also, clean the bolt and screw that holds the band together. When dirt gets into these, it can stop the bolt from tightening all the way down.

3) Use a filter lubricant

Using a filter lubricant on the o-ring itself can help the top and bottom halves of the filter tank to pull closer together.

Using the lubricant on the areas inside of the band all around filter

 and band screw will allow the band to sometimes pull tighter together than without.

Note: Always use a lubricant made for use on swimming pool filters as these were tested and will not degrade the rubber o-ring.

4) Change the filter tank o-ring

Filter o-rings can expand and shrink with normal use. New tank o-rings usually cost between $9 to $40. These can be purchased at most local swimming pool stores.

Note: If you are using a new o-ring and the filter still leaks, double check that the correct tank o-ring is being used. It is common for filter tank o-rings to look similar but have significantly different diameters.

Note: Some will say if you can rub your finger along the o-ring and get a black smudge on your finger to replace the o-ring. Instead, keep it simple- if steps 1-3 fail to stop the leak, then replace the o-ring regardless if it smudges or not.

5) Gasket maker

If all of the above failed, it is possible that either the top or bottom half to have been physically damaged or deformed. This final method should be the last resort and only used if every other method was tried and failed. Using gasket maker does not always work but it is far cheaper than replacing either the top or bottom filter tank. As the name implies, gasket maker only creates a rubber gasket; it will not glue the top half to the bottom half of the filter.

Gasket maker can be purchased from most automotive supply stores.

Apply a layer of gasket maker on a clean lower tank and new o-ring.

Place the lid (upper half) back onto the lower half and over the gasket maker.

Reattach the band and tighten.

Check the instructions for appropriate drying time. Afterwards, restart the pump and check for leaks.

At this point if the system still leaks you can try a local pool professional for a second opinion, but most likely the top, bottom or both half's will need to be replaced to stop the leak.

How to clean a Sta-rite System 3 cartridge filter

How to clean a Sta-Rite System 3 cartridge filter

The following is a how-to guide on cleaning a Sta-Rite System 3 SM (S8M150 and S8M500 specifically  series cartridge filter. What makes the Sta-Rite System 3 cartridge filter system unique is the eight clamp assemblies that hold the filter together. Most full sized pool filters have a single metal band to hold the top and bottom halves.
This filter system has 2 large cartridges inside that are held together with eight screws in side clamps. (The  Sta-Rite System 3 SMD is almost the same except it has one large cartridge)

From start to finish, this takes about an hour.

Click on any image to see a larger version.

Note: A pool filter operates under a tremendous amount of pressure and could cause fatal injuries if the system came on while the lid was loose. Wine Country Pools & Supplies is not responsible for any damaged caused from the use of this guide. If you are unsure about turning off your system pump or any part in this guide, hire a professional to clean your filter.

What you will need to clean this filter:

-  A garden hose with water pressure.

What you may need:

- A filter tank O-ring (if the lid won’t fit or if the system leaks water from its midsection while the pump is on)

- A filter lubricant for the O-ring gasket

- A flat head screw driver

Start:

Turn off the breaker to the pump so there is no chance the system will turn on while cleaning.

(pic)

Open the air release valve at the top of the filter to start relieving pressure.

Opening the filter lid:

Each of the clamp assemblies will need to be completely removed.

Start by unscrewing one of the eight round plastic knobs. Once the screw is sticking out about an inch, the large rectangle case of the assembly can be pulled back.

A flat head screw driver might be needed to pry this off.

Now pull the assembly up and off.

(It is also possible to completely remove the screw knob and then pry the assembly cover off alone.)

Note: There is a washer inside the assembly cover that can get jammed. Use the flat head screw driver to push the washer out and away from the filters center to free it.

Remove all eight clamp assemblies.

Lift the filter lid straight up and off the filter.

Removing and cleaning the cartridges:

Inside are two large cartridges. Pull the center cartridge straight up and out of the filter.

Now pull the larger outer cartridge up and out of the filter.

Use a garden hose to rinse off each cartridge, cleaning both the inside and outside of each. The goal is to clean off not only dirt but also any debris that has gottem stuck in between the folds of the cartridges.

Note: The better these are cleaned, the longer they will go before they will need to be cleaned again.

Note: If there are any cracks in the cartridge molds or tears in the cartridge fabric, the cartridge will need to be replaced.

Cleaning the inside of the filter tank:

To clean the inside of the lower tank, first remove the drain plug from the bottom of the filter.

Rinse the tank out with the garden hose, removing all dirt.

Also, take this time to clean the filter tank O-ring area as this can help reduce the chance for leaks and later help the lid to go back on smoothly.

Reattach the drain plug.

Reinserting the cartridges:

Place the larger cartridge in the filter first. Notice that there is an arrow on top of the cartridge that should line up with the direction of the in/out pipes of the filter.

Each cartridge has a single opening on the bottom that sits on an opening inside the filter and holds it in place.

Place the smaller cartridge inside while also lining up the top arrow with the direction of the in/out pipes of the filter and sitting it on its bottom connecting slot.

Closing the filter:

Place the filter lid back onto the bottom half of the filter. Notice the position of the pressure gauge and the direction it is facing. Twist the lid to get the gauge face to where it’s easiest for you to see.

Now, adjust the filter lid so that the top halves of each assembly line up with one of the bottom half’s assembly housing.

If the lid will not go down flush with the bottom half, the filter O-ring could have expanded. First, try some filter lubricant on the O-ring.

If the lid will still not go down, the O-ring will need to be replaced.

Reattach one of the assembly clamps. If you are unsure of how to place them over and on, use the following steps on each:

1) Remove the round plastic screw from the assembly housing.

2) Place the clamp bolt over the top and bottom connecting halves so that it sits on its own sticking out.

3) Push the assembly housing cover on over the top and bottom connecting halves with the screw in its middle section.

4) Now screw on the plastic handle to the center bolt in the middle of the assembly housing cover.

Attach a 2nd assembly clamp on the opposite side of the clamp you just set in place.

Attach the 3rd and 4th clamp assemblies in between the first and second but on opposite sides.

Attach the remaining four clamps in any order.

Once all eight are in, retighten each in a clock-wise direction starting from any clamp.

Restarting the filter:

With the top air relief valve still open, turn on the filter system (the pump). Once the system catches prime and blows out all of the air from inside, close the relief valve.

If the filter leaks water from its midsection, turn off the pump, tighten the clamp assemblies, and turn back on the pump. If the system still leaks, the filter O-ring could have shrank and will need to be replaced.

While the system is running, take note of filter pressure; this is the “clean” running pressure. When the pressure goes up more than 10 psi from this number, the filter should be cleaned again.

Note: The pressure can change when valves are moved on both the suction and the return sides of the pipes (i.e. pool mode, spa mode, spa fill and spa drain modes). Therefore, you should also take note of what “mode” your pool is in when recording its pressure.

Note: When the system is first turned on, it is common for some dirt to be blown in to the pool. This is from dirt that had gotten into the pipes during the removal of the cartridges or dirt that was dislodged but not remove from the cartridge during its cleaning.

Final notes:

There is no set amount of time that goes by when a filter needs to be opened and cleaned. However, a general rule is cleaning once or twice a year.

There are times when a filter will need to be cleaned even if it had been done recently.  A dirty filter can reduce water flow, hurting the filter’s ability to clean the water effectively. A dirty filter can also contain dead algae that will be used as food for new algae. 

Below are a few example situations of when a filter should be cleaned.

- After a major algae bloom in the pool.

- When the filter pressure goes up more than 10 psi from its clean running pressure.

- If you are not sure what the system clean running pressure is.

- If the pool water remains cloudy while the chemical levels are good.

- If the returning water to the pool from the filter system has visibly slowed.

- If the automatic pool cleaner has stopped moving and everything else has been checked (in relation to the pool cleaner)

If you are unsure, just clean the filter as a filter can never be to clean.

Replacing The Caulking Around A Pool

Introduction

This walkthrough will cover the steps we took while replacing the caulking around a pool.
This is not meant as a complete set of instructions on how to remove and replace caulking or how to use Deck O Seal. It is meant as an additional reference to their products included instructions for anyone attempting to replace their own pool deck caulking. If you are unsure about doing any of this yourself then don’t hesitate to hire a professional.

The caulking of a pool is a flexible material that allows the concrete next to a pool to move a small amount without creating a gap that allows water to flow in between. Over time the caulking can dry, crack or break, creating openings for water. If water gets between the pool and the concrete it can cause the ground to become soft and the concrete to move up or down next to the pool.

The entire process of removing and then pouring takes hours and should be started and finished in the same day, since removing the existing caulking leaves that area vulnerable to water.

What you will need to follow our steps

- A caulking/coping product (I used Deck-O-Seal) - the amount you need depends on the area you will be covering

- A household-style broom

- A small brush or small broom

- A flat head screw driver (to open the caulking containers)

- Linoleum knife (also known as a Vinyl knife)

What you might need

- A pair of work gloves

- A bottle of Acetone

- Outdoor kneepads

- Scissors

1) Removing the existing caulking

Firstly, the old caulking needs to be removed. Use the Linoleum knife to cut both sides, and then pull the caulking out.

Note 1: Do this step for the entire pool before anything else, but do not do sections at a time. The caulking will start to dry as soon as it is mixed, so once the caulking is mixed the entire pool should be prepped and ready. 

Note 2: If any section of caulking needs to be redone then redo the entire pool. The color will probably not match if only a section is replaced, and if the caulking broke in one area then all of the caulking could be ready to crack/break since it will have all been subjected to similar conditions.

Usually there is either foam or sand underneath the old caulking.

For the moment leave whatever is underneath alone and only remove the old caulking. Keep these removed pieces as they might be needed later.

2) Leveling the area that the new caulking will sit in

The space between the pool and the concrete next to it needs to be a quarter inch valley from the top of the line of the pool. 

If there are any holes or gaps in this area then the new caulking will drain through this and not settle down correctly. If there are any gaps use sand to fill them, leveling out the space to the correct depth.

It is possible that a gap is too deep to be plugged with sand, in this case use a small piece of the old caulking to plug this gap then pour sand over that.

This valley area needs to be clean, anything poking up (old caulking left stuck to the side or bottom or foam at the bottom of the valley that was used originally to create the proper depth for the caulking) can poke up though the new caulking while it is drying. Make sure this valley is clear and is the proper depth.

Use a brush or small broom to help level out the sand.

3) Prepare the new caulking mixture

We used Deck-O-Seal for this job, if you have a different product your steps will vary. Always follow the instructions that come with your mixture.

In the Deck-O-Seal box are two containers of caulking mixtures, a pour bottle, instructions and a wood mixer.

Pour the small container into the gallon sized container.

Both have a thick texture. Scoop out as much as you can from the small container to the large container.

Mix with the included wooden mixer for 10 minutes. While mixing be sure to push along the sides of the gallon container to mix both of the chemicals completely together.

4) Pour the caulking from the gallon container to the application bottle

Slowly pour the newly mixed caulking to the provided bottle.

This can be a messy process, so pour over a tarp or something similar.

Attach the top to the bottle. Cut the top of the bottle (with the Linoleum knife or a pair of scissors) at a 45 degree angle; this will help you to pour in a consistent way.

Place the top back on to the gallon sized container. This will prevent items from blowing inside and hopefully slow the drying process of the unused caulking until more is needed.

5) Pouring new caulking around the pool

The new caulking should settle between the pool and the concrete next to it, not over them. Slowly squeeze the bottle allowing a small amount of caulking to be released while moving along the already prepared valley around the pool.

Notice that the caulking sits in the valley, not over lapping either the pool or the concrete side.

If any caulking drips onto the deck, use acetone to clean it up while it is still wet.

Go as far as you can with the bottle, then refill for the leftovers still in the gallon container. There is about 2.5 to 3 bottles worth of caulking per one gallon container.

If you run out prepare another gallon using the same steps you used to make the first and repeat as necessary.

Each prepared gallon is expected to be good to use for about one hour (at 77 degrees Fahrenheit) after it is mixed. After that it will be too solid to be poured.

6) (optional step) Apply sand to the newly poured caulking

I have noticed that not everyone does this. We always do so I am including it in this walkthrough.

Apply a small amount of sand to the still-wet, newly poured caulking. Doing this give the caulking a grain-like texture that better matches most concrete textures.

7) Letting the caulking dry

It will take about 24 hours to dry assuming ideal warm weather (77 degrees Fahrenheit or above) conditions. After the 24 hour period check the caulking; it should be firm and not feel tacky. If it has not finished drying give it another 24 hours.

Once dry, sweep up the remaining sand from around the pool with a standard house broom.

Note: Do not sweep the sand while the caulking is wet or tacky, as this will cause the caulking to streak and/or leave broom gashes in the caulking.

(after pics)

Final notes

There is no way to know how long caulking will last before it cracks or breaks up. It will depend on weather conditions and the soil underneath the concrete/pool. Also, it should be noted that it is possible that the ground is soft and the concrete will move causing gaps, regardless of the quality/state of the caulking.

Wine Country Pools & Supplies