Pool Motor Replacement Walk Through

A note before proceeding:
If you are unsure about electrical wiring, it is crucial that you hire a licensed professional to replace your pump. An improperly wired pump can void any warranty, destroy equipment and/or start an electrical fire. Written by www.WCPandS.com
Wine Country Pools & Supplies is not responsible for any damaged cause from the use of this walk through.

The following is not meant as a walkthrough for installing a new two speed pump motor on what was a single speed motor; this is a walkthrough for installing a replacement two speed pump motor on an existing two speed motor pump. The pump in this example is a Pentair WhisperFlo pump with an A.O. Smith motor (being removed and installed). The steps to replace a single speed pump are similar except for the wiring.  The motor being replaced is 3-4 years old and froze shortly after a recent rainstorm.

What you need to replace a motor:

Parts needed:

2 speed motor (A.O. Smith SQS1202R)

Pump Seal (U.S. Seal PS-1000)

Plate gasket (Whisper Flo seal plate gasket)

Tools needed:

Craftsman wrench offset ratchet 14MM

1/4 hex head screwdriver

Allen wrench key 3/32

Phillips head screw driver

Flat head screwdriver

Needle nose pliers

Adjustable wrench 

Additional recommended tools:

Pool Tool impeller wrench (127)

Permatex ultra black gasket maker

Starting:

Before doing anything, be sure to turn off the breakers, preferably the breakers at the house for all of the pool equipment.

Disconnecting the wires connected to the pump:

Remove the bonding wire (if there is one) from the old motor. This is usually an external wire attached by one screw to the outside of the pump motor. 

Remove the screws at the back of the motor; then, pull off the rear panel. Once the panel is off, make note of all wires and their positions. A two speed pump has an additional wire compared to single speed and variable speed pumps. Note the pump we are working on in this example is wired for 220 volts. 

Using the needle nose pliers, straighten out all wires to ease their movement when we remove them from the motor.

Unscrew the large collar at the bottom of elbow; this could also be a straight connector. Then, pull the collar down and out of the way. 

Pull the conduit out (away) from the elbow.

Push the wires out of the motor while simultaneously pulling on the other end of the wires to remove them from the motor.

To remove the elbow conduit from the motor, there usually is a nut on the side of the pump that needs to be unscrewed. Using a screw driver makes this easier to get started. Once the inside nut is removed, the entire elbow can be turned and unscrewed from the motor housing.

Releasing the motor from the pump frame:

Remove the six bolts on the back of the pump.

Once the bolts are removed, the motor will pull straight back. Note the cone connected to front of the plate.

Place the motor in a location where you can work better on it, preferably a workbench.

Removing the impeller:

The cone can be removed with an Allen wrench. After removing the two small screws on opposite sides that hold this on, the the cone pulls straight off.

Remove the single screw located in the front of the impeller. This can be done with a Phillips head screwdriver. Note that this screw is reverse threaded.

Now the impeller can be unscrewed from the plate. I used the Pool Tool impeller wrench; you may need to use pliers to brace the rear shaft in the wiring compartment if the impeller moves when you try to unscrew it.

Removing the motor from the plate:

Remove the final four bolts holding the motor to the pump plate.

Removing the old and installing the new seal:

Keeping the seal plate face down, a hex head screwdriver can be used to dislodge the old seal. Go around in a circle, slowly tapping the inner edges to break loose the seal.

Turn the plate over.

When installing the new seal, a small amount of gasket maker can be applied to help prevent leaks. This is not required; however, it does help in preventing leaks. 

When placing the new seal, use the hex head screwdriver to sit the seal all the way down. It should sit flush with the back side of the plate.

The impeller has the second part of the seal.  Note the side that faces up. To remove the old seal use a flat head screw driver to pry it out.

The new seal pushes down in to the impeller with the rubber touching the back of the impeller.

Connecting the motor to the plate then to the impeller:

When attaching the motor to the plate, the bottom of the plate is clearly marked. In this particular motor the capacitor sits on the unit’s top side. Press the plate and the motor together then insert and tighten the four bolts that connect the front of the motor to the back of the plate.

The new impeller screws on to the area in the front of the plate. Note that you may need to remove the screws on the back of the motor to stop the shaft from spinning, allowing you to better tighten impeller.

Screw back in the single screw to the center of the impeller again, remembering that this screw is reverse threaded (tighten counter clockwise).

Reattaching the wires to pump:

Remove the back cover from new motor if you have not already done so. 

Screw the elbow connector in to the empty hole in the back of the motor. Because of the limited space, I also screwed in the nut on the inside of the pump while installing the elbow. If there is enough room, screw the nut into the inside of the motor to the elbow.

Push the wires in to the elbow and though to the motor. Once you can start to see the wires, you can gently pull each wire with the needle nose pliers to guide them though.

Once the wires are in, pull the conduit up to the elbow. Then, pull the collar up to the elbow and screw it on.

Some of the wires will need to be reshaped to attach to the pump. Reattach each wire just as you removed them. There four total wires (for a 220 setup) with two power lines, one ground and one common wire.

Reattach the panel/cover to the back of the motor.

Reconnecting the cone and ready the plate:

Attach the cone on to the front of the pump. The cone only fits on one way. Align the screw holes on the cone with the holes on the plate. Using the Allen wrench, tighten the two screws that hold it in place.

Although this next step is not required, it greatly helps. Apply some gasket maker to the grove around the front of the plate where the gasket will sit. This will create a better seal and help to hold the gasket down while placing the motor in to the pump.

Insert the new gasket into the plate. There is a groove on the plate for this gasket. Never reuse a old gasket; when opening the pump housing, always use a new gasket when reattaching the motor to the pump frame.

Connecting the motor to pump:

Push the motor into the pump frame cone first. Once they are pressed up against each other, insert the top two screws in to the back of the plate first to hold the motor upright. Attach all six screws. Only hand tighten first going clockwise; then, tighten clockwise again with the ratchet.

Reattach the bonding wire to the motor (if one is available).

If the gasket maker was used, allow 10-15 minutes for the gasket maker to set before testing the motor.

Turn back on the breakers and startup the motor.

If the pump will not start:

-recheck the breakers.

-Check your time clock options

-If still no power, the wiring needs to be rechecked.

-It is possible the new motor is defective. However, this should be your last guess.

A final note: Again if you are unsure about electrical wiring, hire a licensed professional to replace your pump. An improperly wired pump can destroy equipment, void your warranty and/or start an electrical fire.
Wine Country Pools & Supplies is not responsible for any damaged cause from the use of this walk through.

Hayward Pro-Grid DE filter system

The following is a review of the Hayward Pro-Grid DE (Diatomaceous Earth) Filter System

The Pro-Grid filter system comes in sizes ranging from 36 to 72 sqft. The 48 sqft filter (Manufacture part number DE4820) was used in this review. Written by www.WCPandS.com

In The Box

The filter system comes almost completely assembled with the exception of the drain cap being unattached and in a bag with the user manual. The backwash valve is required and sold separately; we used a standard 2-inch pre-plumbed valve kit from Hayward (Manufacture part number SP0410X502S). Only if this filter is replacing another Hayward Pro-Grid with an existing working backwash valve is purchasing a new valve not needed.

The Guts

Using a common DE type configuration the unit contains eight filter grids (7 full sized and 1 partial) with a top manifold. The pressure gauge comes with built in markers to mark a clean filter level and alert the user when the system should be cleaned (this needs to be calibrated on first use). The air release is a twist type with a large opening allowing for a reasonable amount air to be released quickly.

One of the negative aspects of this filter that is not an immediate problem resides with the standard Hayward backwash valve that is used with this system. We have many Pro-Grid filters on our pool routes and see similar issues again and again with the backwash valve pistons. The point where the metal attaches to the plastic is its Achilles' heel as over time this becomes weak and warn down, causing the piston to break in the middle with the lower half suck in the shaft.

 (Picture is from a Hayward ProGrid on our route, this type of damage is similar to what we see over time with these pistons)

The Setup and First Run

This Pro-Grid filter is almost twice the size of the StaRite system 2 cartridge filter that it is replacing. Attach the drain plug before doing anything else since once the filter is set in its final resting place ,reaching behind the unit could be difficult.

Inlet and outlet ports are only marked in the manuals, not physically on the filter itself so check that manual instead of guessing! Only two pipes had to be re-plumbed and connected to attach the new filter. This type of install should be simple for anyone with just basic plumbing knowledge.

The DE is not included and must be added to the system once the system is turned on.

Overall

While it may not be a great filter, the Hayward Pro-Grid series is a good all around filter with only one (yet glaring) negative. This series is priced comparably with other similar DE units and is even available in a larger 72 sq ft configuration that not all major manufactures offer.  This would be rated higher had the backwash valve design was improved or if there existed a third party backwash valve that could be used with the system and didn’t have the same issues.

Pros

-Pressure gauge has built in markers for determining when the filter needs cleaning

-Air release is rugged, a nice change from the previously cheap systems

-Available in a 72 sq ft size

Cons

               -Backwash valve sold separately 

               -Poorly designed backwash piston breaks easily
               -Marking inlet/outlet ports on the filter would be nice

                

Final Score: 6/10

MP Industries Flex-Vac Pro Vacuum Review

The following is a review of the MP Industries Flex-Vac Pro Vacuum head.

Written by www.WCPandS.com. The Flex-Vac Pro vacuum heads come in sizes ranging from 14 to 22 inches; the version we used for this review was the model MP-267 19-inch head (14 inch version pictured)

In The Box

The vacuum head came almost completely assembled with everything attached except for the white cap used for hose connections that is placed on top and fits snug. Noticeably different from comparable units is the missing attachable rubber skirts on the bottom. Instead, the Flex-Vac Pro has built in soft, plastic skirts. The plastic of the frame is extended down in both the front and back to act as the skirts. This a welcome change since it is common for the rubber skirts to come loose and fall off or to get halfway off and sucked in to the vac line.

The Guts

The Flex-Vac Pro uses a metal swivel handle instead of plastic handles, which can easily be broken and warp from being weathered. The swivel works well when maneuvering the vacuum head underwater to the next area. The wheels are urethane ball bearing wheels. Traction is important since the alternative is sliding the entire unit around the bottom of the pool, making for un-straight lines. The frame is a soft, bendable plastic, with fins that allow the vacuum to form according to the pool's natural surface curves.

Overall

The Flex-Vac Pro Vacuum head has many of the features of professional grade heads at a lower cost. The built in skirt is a welcome addition. The metal swivel handle, urethane wheels, and flexible body make this unit on par with some of the more expensive vacuum heads.

Pros

• Costs less than comparable professional series vacuum heads while keeping the same build quality
• The bottom skirts are built in and don’t come loose like the removable rubber skirts
• Metal handle and swivel
• Urethane wheels that grip better then plastic  

Cons

•  The top white cap often slips off when removing a hose from the units head
• Removing hair or string caught in the wheels can be difficult because of the gap between the bearings and the upper/lower sections of each wheel

Final Score: 8/10

Vac-Alert Industries: Vac-Alert Model VA-2000S

Vac-Alert Industries: Vac-Alert Model VA-2000S

The following is a review of the Vac-Alert Safety Vacuum Release System (SVRS) Written by www.WCPandS.com

Note: A SVRS is a device designed to help prevent entrapments from suction lines in pools or spas. Every year, people are killed when they get to close too a suction line (usually main drains) Getting caught on one of these can hold someone underwater causing them to drown.. Some states now require public pools to have a SVRS attached to each pump in an attempt to save lives. Check your state and local laws to see if and how these would apply to you.

In The Box

In the box comes the Vac-Alert system, a key for adjusting vacuum sensitivity, the manual, a chart of example setups and a information video DVD.

The Setup and First Run

The SVRS attaches to an existing pump system via a PVC T connector (not included). For our setup, we used a 2 inch PVC T with an 1.5 inch to 2 inch adaptor since the SVRS device only accepts 1.5 inch pipe. On the example sheet, we used the first example as our guide for installation.

When any type of blockage occurs, the Vac-Alert is triggered and the system opens the suction side to atmosphere, causing the pump to lose prime. This should allow what caused the blockage to be dislocated. To reset the unit, there is a toggle switch that needs to be moved to the opposite position. It is very easy to test by simply blocking the one of the skimmer lines with a tennis ball or any other object that will block the flow of water. In our case the default setting worked so we did not need to adjust the unit.

The Guts
There is not much to take apart on the Vac-Alert. The bottom has a check valve connected by a quick release to stop any water from backing up in to the unit. The front screen is removable for cleaning or to push the unit to the open position (while the system is off). On the back of the unit there is a special screw only removable with the key that comes in the box. This back area is used to adjust the Vac-Alert sensitivity as needed.

Overall

The Vac-Alert system is one of the least expensive SVRS systems on the market. If price is an issue, this is a great SVRS for most situations. The installation and setup should only take an hour for most experienced pool or spa professionals. The SVRS is meant as a life saving device and while the average person with some plumbing experence can insall the unit, it should be installed by a professional to ensure everything is done correctly. A down side of the Vac-Alert would be its missing any auto restart function, this hurts its commercial uses since it has to consistently checked to insure the system has not mistakenly been triggered.

Pros:

-        One of the least expensive SVRS systems on the market

-        Easier to install then most other SVRSs

-        Very few moving parts (less to go wrong)

-        Easy to reset the system (especially if support needs to be done over the phone)

Cons:

-        Because of the unit's ease of installation,one might be tempted to skip parts of the manual and unknowingly install the unit incorrectly.

-        The unit can be set off from a temporary blockage (pool sweep passing over a drain, leaves collecting in a skimmer basket, etc). This will cause the pump to stop and will not restart until someone manually resets the system. This model will not automatically reset as some of the other electric SVRS models will (i.e. the Pentair Intillflo SVRS).

Final Score: 7/10

Pool Vergnuegen: The Pool Cleaner

Pool Vergnuegen: The Pool Cleaner

The following is review of the two wheel white Pool Cleaner made by Pool Vergnuegen. Written by www.WCPandS.com

In the Box

The two wheel “Pool Cleaner” comes with 9 regular white hoses, 1 white leader hose with 2 floats attached, a wall flap (water gate), hose cone (for attaching to the skimmer), and a regulator valve (also just for skimmer attachment). The cleaner connects to the pool system like most other automatic cleaners.  Just attach the amount of hoses needed (which was nine in my case). There should be enough hose to reach the farthest section of the pool. The free end of the hose can be attached to either the built in pool cleaner port on the side of the pool if it has one or directly in the skimmer with the extra attachments.

The Setup and First Run

In our setup
,
we used the built in wall connection that was placed near the middle of the pool. Once everything was connected and the pump was turned on, the cleaner had no problem sucking up leaves, grass, and dirt from the surfaces of the pool. Because of how the gears are set, the unit will occasionally turn 90 to 180 degrees to try and reach the entire pool area. The wheels each have a knob that help lift the cleaner if it gets stuck on a drain. It easily crawls up the sides, almost a little too well. When the unit comes up the sides it will hit the water line where it will stay sucking air until the pump loses pressure causing the cleaner to fall back in to the water to wait for the system to re-prime and continue moving. 

The Guts

To open the pool cleaner
,
just remove the four screws on the top side. The unit works by a variety of gears slowly turning the wheels powered by a center turbine, which is pushed by rushing water.  Two floats on the cleaner hose help to keep the cleaner in an upright position while moving on the floor.

Overall

This is one of the best automatic pool cleaners available on the market. I would go as far to say it is on the same level with the much loved Hayward Navigator. While the Pool Cleaner has its strengths and weaknesses, the good far outweigh the bad.

Pros:

-Even with low suction, the unit moves around easily.

-Easy to clear if something gets jammed in the main turbine.

-Does an excellent job of picking up dirt and debris form the bottom and sides of the pool.

Cons:

-  Runs up the wall and comes out of the water to create a strange sucking sound.

- The plastic skirts seem to come off over time and somehow get lost in the pool.

- The knobs on the wheels will only last a few months before being warn down

Final Score: 8/10

Pentair IntelliFlo VS+SVRS Review

Wiring the Intelliflo VS+SVRS

Written by www.WCPandS.com. Wiring the pump for 220 is standard, just two hot and a ground wired to a 220 fuse set in the fuse box. No surprises or complications.

Programming the Intelliflo VS+SVRS

Programming is a little strange at first but quite easy to figure out. The times and speeds are programmed under the “Speed 1-8” -> “Schedules”. I have found the best schedule is 2 hours on high (2800) to move the pool cleaner and 6 hours on low speed (1100) just to move the water.

Variable speed software wise, Pentair is a generation ahead of Hayward. While the Pentair menus do have a learning curve on deciphering their menus (keep the menu tree from the manuals close in the beginning), it all comes together nicely in the end.

Other menu options include setting the pump priming time, anti freeze, and timeout settings.

VS

VS is short for Variable Speed. The pump speed can be set anywhere between 1100RPM to 3450RPM. One of the benefits of this pump is that it is a variable speed pump. Pentair estimates on the low end, a power savings of $620 to $1240 a year. This is due to a more efficient design (magnets instead of large coils) and the pump's ability to run at lower speeds and still move water effectively. The Intelliflo is also noticeably quieter compared to the old 1hp pump this replaced.

SVRS

As part of the Virginia Graeme Baker Safety Act certain safety precautions have to be in place to be considered compliant. there are other parts of the act, including drain requirements, replacing the pump is a simple way of meeting some of these requirements for equipment entrapment prevention. Being in VGB compliance and saving money with a variable speed pump (compared to single and two speed pumps) is good way of killing two birds with one stone.

Overall

The Intelliflo VS+SVRS was easy to install and setup. This is great as a replacement or upgrade of a current pump.  Just keep the manual close to the pump since it is easy to get lost in the menu tree.

Final Score: 9/10