This was a motor replacement for a Hayward Tristar 2 speed motor done by us at Wine Country Pools and Supplies. This is not meant as a how to guide; it will show you how this specific motor was replaced.
Parts needed:
Replacement motor
9/16 Socket wrench
1/2 Socket wrench
Square bit?
3/16 Allen wrench
PS-3890 Pump Seal
ALA-601-5506 Volute O-ring
SPX3200T Housing O-ring
Phillips head screw driver
Flat head screw driver
Start:
All breakers to the pool equipment are turned off.
The pump is connected to the plumbing system by two quick release
unions.
Removing both of these allows the motor to be moved.
The motor can now be moved, and the backside can be accessed
to remove the electrical wires, freeing the motor.
Note: the grounding wire connected to this motor was removed
with a flat head screwdriver but it is not shown in the photos.
At the back of the motor, the rear cover can be removed by
first removing the two flat head screws, then pulling the plastic cover away
from the motor.
There are three hot power lines. One is shared (tan), one
for low speed (blue), and one for high speed (blue red). The power wires were
already marked on this motor by the installer. The green is the ground wire.
All the wires need to be disconnected.
The conduit elbow needs to be loosened so the wires can be
pulled out of the motor.
(No picture)
To separate the front of the pump from the motor, a ½ inch
wrench was used to remove the 6 bolts (3 on each side).
The two halves can now be pulled apart.
To remove the volute, two square head screws were removed.
The volute can now be pulled off, and away from the motor.
The impeller ring can be pulled off. Make a note of the side
that the raised edge faces.
To remove the impeller, first the center screw needs to be
removed. A 3/16 Allen wrench was used. This is a reverse thread screw.
To unscrew the impeller, the motor shaft needs to be held in
place. A wrench was used to hold it in place from the back.
Then the impeller can be unscrewed and removed.
To remove the motor from the seal plate, 4 9/16 bolts needed
to be removed from the back of the seal plate.
Now the seal plate can be pulled forward away from the
motor.
On the seal plate, the old seal was removed with a flat head
screwdriver, pushing it out from the backside.
The new motor and the old seal plate are reconnected with
the 4 9/16 bolts.
The new half seal (PS-3890) (the larger half) is inserted
with the metal side facing the inside of the seal plate. A flathead screwdriver
was used to push it into place.
On the impeller, the old seal needs to be removed using a
flathead screwdriver. Now the new smaller seal piece is inserted into the
impeller, with the rubber side facing the impeller.
(No picture)
To tighten the impeller to the motor, the shaft needs to be
held again from the back of the motor. While holding the shaft in place, the
impeller can be screwed back on to the motor with the new seals already in
place.
The center screw needs to be reinserted into the impeller
using the Allen wrench. Note again this is a reverse threaded screw.
The impeller ring was reattached, paying attention to the
correct side of the raised section.
The volute was reattached using the two small square bolts.
The new volute O-ring can be attached.
The new seal plate gasket is set into the seal plate.
The front of the pump and the motor can be reconnected. They are first pushed together, and then the
6 1/2 bolts are reinserted to hold them together.
To connect the conduit elbow, a plastic screw needed to be
removed.
Once the pump was put back together, it needed to be rewired
using the new motor diagram. The motor didn’t list high, low, and common on the
backside like the previous motor, but did have a diagram on the side.
Unions and grounding wire were reconnected.
The breakers were turned back on and the system was back up
and running.
