Wine Country Pools & Supplies

Hayward Navigator Repair FAQ

2012-02-16T05:41:00.008-08:00

Quick links:
How to open the Navigator
Why bent hoses are a problem
Too much or too little suction

What to check first if your pool cleaner stops moving:

Check the main pump basket for any debris.
Check the filter pressure to see if the filter needs to be cleaned.
Check the valve located in front of the main pump that controls the amount of suction for the pool sweep (if one exists).
Check the leaf canister in the pool sweep line (if one exists).

If none of the above present a problem, it is now time to troubleshoot the Navigator.

Check to see if anything has jammed the turbine or A-Frames. To do this, remove the single screw directly underneath the Navigator. Then pull the access cover straight out. Look for rocks, nuts, twigs or any other small items that could jam the system.

Check the Navigator feet (shoes). Look for worn downed, or hardened feet. If the feet are worn down, the Navigator will not be able to get enough traction to move. If the feet are hardened (think of old hard pencil erasers) the feet will just slip on the pool surface.

To check the A-Frame and pods, hold the back side of one of the pods down and move the other pod up and down. There should be very little movement of the free pod. The more movement there is the more the turbine will spin and the pods not move. Be sure to check both sides. This is a very common problem for Navigators.

The unwanted movement of the pods can be caused from variety of reasons:

The connecting parts of the A-Frames to the pods over time become worn out, letting the pods to wiggle without moving the A-Frames.
The bearing in the A-Frames become loose or, in extreme cases, come apart, causing lots of free unwanted movement of the A-Frame.
The turbine can wear out around the contact points of the A-Frame, allowing the turbine to move and have little effect on the A-Frames. (see pic below)
The bearing that hold the turbine allowing it to spin over time become loose and fall apart. (see pic below)

If any of the above has occurred with your unit it is best to replace the pods, A-Frames, Turbine and shoes since all are directly related and wear together.

If the Navigator does not turn:

There is a gear box in the rear side of the Navigator. It is common for hair or other small thin items to get pulled in to it via the back vent, either reducing the unit's ability to turn or preventing it from turning.

To check this, the Navigator will need to be opened to expose the gear box.

Once the box is visible, it can be pulled straight up and out.

Now the top of the box can be pulled up and off, exposing a set of gears.

Take out the gears one by one, keeping them in order as you place them down. It is crucial that they go back in to the box in the same order they came out.

This is the only method for clearing any items out form the gear box.

If the gear box is clean, the top of the Navigator where the hose connects called the Cone Gear should turn. There are gears connected to this cone (completely separate from the rear gear box) allowing the Navigator to turn slowly underwater. If you turn the cone by hand, the movement should feel like it is resisting; this should not be loose nor easy to move. (See video below of a working cone gear speed and sound)

It is rare that this set of gears is the problem but if you have already checked the rear gear box and it had no issues, then check the cone gear and its associated gear set.

Why bent hoses are a problem:

The hoses, once separated, should naturally lay straight. Often, when the cleaners are removed from the pool, the hoses are rolled up in a neat little circular pile. This causes the hoses to have permanent and unrecoverable bends in them. Once they are reconnected to the sweep, they will causes the cleaner to be pulled in different directions as well as cause the Navigator to not sit flat on the pool surface for proper floor suction. The hoses will need to be replaced to correct this issue. When removing the cleaner from the pool, the hoses must be laid out straight to prevent this problem.

The hoses should float and should not have cracks in them. If the hoses do not float on the top of the water, they will pull on the Navigator in all directions, reducing its cleaning area. Cracks in the hoses cause air leaks; these air leaks reduce the vacuum created in the pool pump, leading to a decrease in suction and a reduction in the power to the pool sweep.

Too much or too little suction:

Having either too much or too little suction can hurt your Navigator. Too much suction causes the pool sweep to move quickly around the pool, causing all the moving parts to wear prematurely. Too slow and the pool sweep may not move at all or move so slowly that very little area is covered during its normal cleaning cycle.

Note: It is common and expected for the filter pressure to drop when increasing suction to the pool sweep.

Note that changing the flow of water to a pool cleaner commonly changes the sound coming from the pump while it is on. This is caused by a change in the amount of water flowing though the pump.

All Navigators are shipped with a vacuum gauge and they are available for purchase separately. To measure the suction a vacuum gauge is needed.

How to control the amount of suction depends on how the Navigator is connected to the pool. If the pool was built for a sweep, there is a control valve in front of the main pool pump (usually next to the control valve for the pool and spa flow). If the pool was not built for a pool sweep, it may be plugged into a pool skimmer suction opening. If this is the case, use a regulator valve to manage the level of suction to the sweep.

Opening your Hayward Navigator to replace the big 3(A-Frames/Turbine, Pods, Shoes):

1) Begin with removing the pod plugs on each side of the unit’s lower pods.

These can removed with a flat head screw driver or pliers and pulled straight out. If your Navigator does not have these, skip this step. Sometimes, these fall off or are removed and never replaced but it is recommended that they are put back as they help to hold the side wings (flaps) on.

2) Remove the wings; these are held on by overlapping plastic hooks on the pods.

These may be missing as it is common for users not to replace these. Although they do help the cleaners do their job, they are not required for them to work.

3)Unscrew the pods. Each pod is held on with one hex head screw.

A hex head screw driver is recommended for this step.

4) Remove the pods. The pods will pull straight out; however, they tend to get stuck on.

Sometimes a large flat head screwdriver is needed to pull each pod off.

5) Depending the age of your Navigator, there are either 4 or 6 screws that need to be removed with a Philipp’s head screw driver. Use it to remove the bottom bumper (bottom plate).

Once removed, the bumper can be pulled off.

6) If your Navigator only has 4 screws, then underneath the bumper will be two more Phillips head screws that will need to be removed.

7) With the unit placed cone side up, pull the top shell up and away from the cleaner.

8) There are 5 Phillips head screws that need to be removed in order to separate the base (the bottom section containing the A-Frames) from the top half of the Navigator.

9) The A-Frames are held in with one Phillips head screw.

Before removing that, first pull out the two green cylinder shells from the bottom of the A-Frames.

10) The new A-Frames should be inserted in the reverse order the old frames were removed.

Start by placing the small green base in to the bottom.

Place one of the new A-Frames into position.

Insert a new green shell in-to the bottom of the new A-Frame from the outside; the flat parts of the shell should be on the top and bottom.

Insert the second A-Frame and insert its shell just as you did with the first.

Place the green cap on top of the two A-Frames where they meet in the middle.

Screw in the included small Phillips head screw with the washer already attached.

11) The turbine is in the top shell that was previously removed. Unscrew the 4 Phillips head screws holding the bottom of the top shell to access the turbine and bearings.

12) Insert the new turbine and bearings. The turbine is marked L for left side and R for right side. On most Navigators, the turbine will only sit in one position since there is a long pin on the left side that should fit into a grove. Some older units do not have this grove so the pin will need to be broken off for the turbine to fit. The bearings should be placed with the open side facing away from the turbine. Each bearing wheel has a single grove on one side that should fit in to a groove at the bottom of the frame that holds the bearing wheel in place. Often this groove is worn out; if it is and your bearings wheels slip, do not worry as this happens in many Navigators.

13) Place the top shell on top of the A-Frame and turbine holder. Notice how the rear screen fits in to a groove in the back.

Screw back in the 2 long Phillips head screws to hold these two together.

14) Place the bottom bumper back on to the bottom of the Navigator and screw back in the remaining 4 long Phillips head screws.

15) Set the top half of the unit back on to the base (with the A-Frames). This will only fit in one direction. Screw in the 4 small Phillips head screws and the center access cover.

16)

Attach the shoes to the new pods before installing the pods. Double check the shoes before you insert them to make sure they are not installed backwards (see pictures). The shoes are pressed on and it is easier to press one side down first and then work on the opposite reaming side.

17) When attaching the pods, they should sit almost completely underneath the Navigator. If they stick out in the front, they are being attached backwards. Each pod is pushed on-to the small end of the exposed A-Frame. If you cannot push it completely on, do not worry since when you screw in the hex head screw in to the pod it will pull the pod into the A-Frame.

18) Reattach the flaps to the pods. Note the L is for left and R is for right on each flap. Insert the plugs in to the pods after each flap is placed.

19) Your Navigator is now ready for use.

Pool/Spa pH and Alkalinity Short

2012-01-04T21:14:00.000-08:00

Wine Country Pools & Supplies is not responsible for any damage caused from the use of this guide.

This article is meant to help anyone with a pool or spa that wants to better understand water pH and water Alkalinity levels. Always follow the instructions of any chemical before adding it to your water. If you are unsure, seek professional help with your water chemistry. Using the incorrect chemical or amount of chemicals can damage equipment and create health problems for anyone using the pool or spa.

Is my water acidic and what can I do?

An acceptable pH range is between 7.2 and 7.8. Anything below 7.2 is considered to be potentially corrosive and anything above 7.8 is scale forming.

The ideal pH range is between 7.4 and 7.6. On a side note, chlorine is more effective when the pH is lower since it has more H to bond to and become HClO. Chorine would prefer the pH to be closer to 6.0 for maximum efficiency; only at that level the water etch the plaster, corrode the equipment, cause skin and eye irritation, and other various (and expensive) problems. However tempting it might be to lower the pH to kill possible water containments, avoid lowering the water pH below 7.4.

Almost all liquid test kits can be used to test pH and most strip testers. If you are using a liquid tester and the pH only shows a yellow color (whereas orange, pink and purple are the only choices on 90% of liquid test kits, see picture of typical test kit above), the pH level has fallen far below the given scale and is in the extreme corrosive stage.

Because the pH scale is logarithmic, the closer the scale is to each extreme end (zero on the low end and 12+ on the high end), the more solution is required to move back one full digit (it takes 10 times more acid to move the scale from nine to eight than it would to take the scale from eight to seven).

Raising and lowering pH:

To lower pH, you want to add H’s (hydrogen) to the water. The easiest way to do this is with liquid Acid, also known as Muriatic Acid. This has a natural pH of less than 0.5, which is why it is added slowly. Adding too much acid can be a costly mistake.

Always add less than you think it needs, then add more later if necessary. Give the acid time to circulate before retesting. Allow it anything from a few hours to a full day.

Storing liquid acid can be dangerous. The plastic bottles they come in will eventually harden and crack over time. It is also easy to spill a loosely capped bottle or puncture the side. The acid is dangerous to kids and/or any pets that might come in contact with the bottle. An alternative to liquid acid is dry acid, known more commonly as “pH down.” While more expensive and less effective (has a pH between 1.0 -2.0), it is generally safe in its powdered form.

To raise the pH, the most common chemicals are soda ash (also called “pH up,” which has a pH of around 12+) or Alkalinity up.

Note: do not use household baking soda. The difference between baking soda and soda ash is that soda ash has been tested under various conditions and comes with written instructions for the amounts required to add to a pool/spa water.

Use the recommend amount of soda ash. The worst that can happen of using too much (causing a high pH) is that it will cloud the water and cause scaling over time, usually around the water line.

If the pH reading is so low that it’s off the scale (i.e. yellow), it can take multiple pounds of soda ash to bring the levels back up to the 7.4 range. In extreme cases, the water will change colors when soda ash is added (usually a dark milky blue).

If this happens, add soda ash and then wait a few hours before retesting, allowing the system to filter the whole time. Check the filter every few hours; it may have a blue or purple scale on it that was filtered out from the water.

Clean the filter to allow for proper filtration until the water is clear. This process can take 24 hours or longer.

Alkalinity friend or foe:

At its best, Alkalinity is not currently hurting your pool/spa chemistry. At its worst, it is casing the pH to change seemingly at random, or not at all after adding additional chemicals.

Total Alkalinity is defined as all of the dissolved alkaline materials currently in a water sample. A Total Alkalinity value describes water’s resistance to a change in pH.

If the Total Alkalinity is too high (over 120 parts per million), any acid added will have a small effect.

If the Total Alkalinity is too low (under 40 parts per million), any acid added will have great effect.

The ideal range is between 80-120ppm (parts per million).

In general, alkalinity changes very slowly on its own. If it does get out of range, the pH levels will either jump from low to high or not change at all after adding chemicals. If either of these happens, perform a total alkalinity test.

When testing alkalinity with a liquid test kit, there are usually 3 bottles involved. Not all test kits can test alkalinity and not all test strips test for alkalinity.

Alkalinity and pH are directly related. Low alkalinity can cause similar problems to low pH and high alkalinity can cause similar problems to high pH. You will raise and lower alkalinity in the same manner as you would raise and lower pH. This also means that changing either pH or alkalinity will affect the other. Always get the alkalinity into an ideal range first; then work on the pH since a balanced alkalinity will cause a stable pH change.

How to Clean a DE Filter

2011-12-10T09:10:00.000-08:00

Wine Country Pools & Supplies is not responsible for any damaged caused from the use of this guide.

The following is a guide on how to clean a swimming pool DE (diatomaceous earth) filter. The filter in the following example (the photos are from two ProGrid filters on two different days) are Hayward ProGrids. Most other swimming pool DE filters will be similar.

We will also cover common issues that occur during a filter cleaning.

What you need to clean a DE filter:

2 Ratchets

Flat head screwdriver

Hammer (a heavy wrench can be used in place of this)

DE (diatomaceous earth)

Starting:

Turn off the system to ensure the pump will not turn on during the cleaning.

Open the air relief valve to start relieving the pressure inside the filter.

Opening the filter:

Most DE filters are held together with one large metal band (called a clamp assembly) locked with a screw bolt (spring assembly). Remove this bolt with a ratchet.

Note: Do not use a wrench, pliers, or a crescent (adjustable) wrench. Using anything other then a ratchet or socket will break down the brass frame of the screw bolt.

Once the screw bolt is detached, the metal band can be completely removed using a flat head screwdriver.

If the filters inside pressure has equalized the lid (called a filter head) can now be removed.

A flat head screwdriver can be wedged between the top and bottom half of the filter to pry off the lid.

Note: If the gasket has expanded, the lid may be difficult to remove. Multiple flat head screw drivers may be needed on opposite sides of the filter to wedge the top off.

Removing the grids:

Most DE filters have the manifold on top (with the exception of the Pentair 4000 series, which has it at the bottom).

If the grids are not weighted down by excessive amounts of dirt, the grids and manifold can be pulled out as one piece. When doing so, the grids need to be pulled straight up. Only a single pipe (called a outlet elbow) connects the filter base to the manifold. While pulling up sometimes a slight right to left twist is needed to separate the manifold from the pipe.

If the set cannot be pulled out as one piece, remove the nut on the top of the manifold. If the long center bolt (called a Retainer Rod) spins when the nut is unscrewed, a set of pliers can be used to hold the center bolt in place.

Note: Only hold the bolt (Retainer Rod) from underneath the manifold; trying to hold the top end could damage the screw threads, making it impossible to remove nut.

Once the nut is removed, the manifold can be lifted straight up off the grids and Outlet Assembly.

Checking the parts for damage:

-Each individual filter grid needs to be checked for holes. Holes allow for debris to pass freely though the filter system. Any grid with holes will need to be replaced.

-Check the grids for broken ribs. When the system is running, a grid with a broken rib will be forced to press against a neighboring grid. When they press together, it reduces the surface area pulling water in to the system.

-If the connectors that attach the grids to the manifold break, the grid should be replaced. DE and dirt will be able to pass though this area if the grid is placed back in with the connectors broken.

-Check the manifold for cracks. If there are any cracks the manifold should be replaced. Because of the pressure the manifold is under, any cracks could easily worsen and expand when the system is running causing DE and/or dirt to pass back in to the pool.

Cleaning out the inside of the filter:

There is a small drain plug near the bottom of the lower section of the filter. This can usually be unscrewed small screw driver or a pair of pliers. Once this is removed you can now rinse out the inside of the filter. Screw back on the drain plug after the filter inside is cleaned.

Note: This plug is a constant source of leaks if removed and reinserted. Either get a new gasket before removing this plug or have some gasket maker on hand for use on the plug.

Cleaning the girds:

Generally, the grids are cleaned simply by hosing then down with water. There are chemicals available for soaking the grids. However, I have never found any difference using these.

Reassembling the grids and the manifold:

This next section can be the most difficult.

Begin by setting the manifold upside down (holes up) on something that keeps it at least 3 inches or more off the ground. You will need to reach under the manifold once the grids are on in to tighten the nut underneath.

The grids should be placed one at a time in to the manifold. Match the groves of the grid to the groves of the manifold. They will only go down in one way.

The only small grid will fit in the slot near the manifold opening. This allows for the Outlet elbow to sit next to the grid set in the filter.

Once all grids are placed into the manifold, the circular bottom rack (called a filter element locator) needs to be placed down over the bottom of the grids. The opening of this rack needs to be in the same area as the main hole on the manifold to allow the filter pipe (outlet elbow) to fit in between the grids. Get the center bolt in the rack through the hole in the center of the manifold.

The grids will now need to be organized in order for them to sit properly in the rack. Start with one side and fit each grid in-to the rack. Then, work your way around to the other side. Each grid must fit in to a rack groove. Take note that the pipe can fit along the side of the grids (see picture below) the manifold hold, the rack opening and the grids out of the way to allow the grid set to fit in the filter.

Once all of the grids are in place, tighten the nut on to the long center bolt underneath the manifold.

Turn the grids right side up and then place the set in to the open filter. Line the large open hole of the manifold with the elbow outlet of the filter system. Small twisting motions might be required to get the manifold completely down. (Depending on the age of the filter there is probably a stain all over the elbow outlet pipe except the top area where the manifold normally fits over)

Closing the filter:

When the top of the filter is placed back on, it needs to be pushed down on as evenly as possible.

Note: It is common for the filter gasket to become deformed by either shrinking, making it difficult to stay in position, or enlarging, making it impossible to fit under the lid. It is recommended that the gasket be replaced either case; if the gasket is to small water may get though when the system runs, causing a leak.

If the lid cannot be pressed down completely, then using a silicon lube on the gasket may help. If the lid can be lowered enough to get the band close to being on, then screwing in the bolt to the band will automatically pull the lid down further.

The band may need to be lightly hammered around the frame while you retighten the screw bolt intermediately to ensure the lid is secure.

Restarting the system:

Note: This next part is potentially dangerous. Staring up the pump while the filter top is not fastened down could cause the lid to be blown off and injure you. Double check that the band is in place and properly tightened. Proceed with caution.

With the air valve open, turn back on the pump. Once the system restarts and all of the air blown out of the filter, close the air valve and turn off the pump. The system will pull the filter lid further down. Check the band screw bolt to see if it needs to be further tightened.

While the system is running, check for leaks around the band. If you find that it is leaking, check that the band screw bolt is as tight as you can safely get it. The filter gasket may need to be replaced if there is still a leak from this area.

Wine Country Pools & Supplies is not responsible for any damaged caused from the use of this guide.

Pool Motor Replacement Walk Through

2011-11-20T19:37:00.000-08:00

A note before proceeding:
If you are unsure about electrical wiring, it is crucial that you hire a licensed professional to replace your pump. An improperly wired pump can void any warranty, destroy equipment and/or start an electrical fire.
Wine Country Pools & Supplies is not responsible for any damaged cause from the use of this walk through.

The following is not meant as a walkthrough for installing a new two speed pump motor on what was a single speed motor; this is a walkthrough for installing a replacement two speed pump motor on an existing two speed motor pump. The pump in this example is a Pentair WhisperFlo pump with an A.O. Smith motor (being removed and installed). The steps to replace a single speed pump are similar except for the wiring. The motor being replaced is 3-4 years old and froze shortly after a recent rainstorm.

What you need to replace a motor:

Parts needed:

2 speed motor (A.O. Smith SQS1202R)

Pump Seal (U.S. Seal PS-1000)

Plate gasket (Whisper Flo seal plate gasket)

Tools needed:

Craftsman wrench offset ratchet 14MM

1/4 hex head screwdriver

Allen wrench key 3/32

Phillips head screw driver

Flat head screwdriver

Needle nose pliers

Adjustable wrench

Additional recommended tools:

Pool Tool impeller wrench (127)

Permatex ultra black gasket maker

Starting:

Before doing anything, be sure to turn off the breakers, preferably the breakers at the house for all of the pool equipment.

Disconnecting the wires connected to the pump:

Remove the bonding wire (if there is one) from the old motor. This is usually an external wire attached by one screw to the outside of the pump motor.

Remove the screws at the back of the motor; then, pull off the rear panel. Once the panel is off, make note of all wires and their positions. A two speed pump has an additional wire compared to single speed and variable speed pumps. Note the pump we are working on in this example is wired for 220 volts.

Using the needle nose pliers, straighten out all wires to ease their movement when we remove them from the motor.

Unscrew the large collar at the bottom of elbow; this could also be a straight connector. Then, pull the collar down and out of the way.

Pull the conduit out (away) from the elbow.

Push the wires out of the motor while simultaneously pulling on the other end of the wires to remove them from the motor.

To remove the elbow conduit from the motor, there usually is a nut on the side of the pump that needs to be unscrewed. Using a screw driver makes this easier to get started. Once the inside nut is removed, the entire elbow can be turned and unscrewed from the motor housing.

Releasing the motor from the pump frame:

Remove the six bolts on the back of the pump.

Once the bolts are removed, the motor will pull straight back. Note the cone connected to front of the plate.

Place the motor in a location where you can work better on it, preferably a workbench.

Removing the impeller:

The cone can be removed with an Allen wrench. After removing the two small screws on opposite sides that hold this on, the the cone pulls straight off.

Remove the single screw located in the front of the impeller. This can be done with a Phillips head screwdriver. Note that this screw is reverse threaded.

Now the impeller can be unscrewed from the plate. I used the Pool Tool impeller wrench; you may need to use pliers to brace the rear shaft in the wiring compartment if the impeller moves when you try to unscrew it.

Removing the motor from the plate:

Remove the final four bolts holding the motor to the pump plate.

Removing the old and installing the new seal:

Keeping the seal plate face down, a hex head screwdriver can be used to dislodge the old seal. Go around in a circle, slowly tapping the inner edges to break loose the seal.

Turn the plate over.

When installing the new seal, a small amount of gasket maker can be applied to help prevent leaks. This is not required; however, it does help in preventing leaks.

When placing the new seal, use the hex head screwdriver to sit the seal all the way down. It should sit flush with the back side of the plate.

The impeller has the second part of the seal. Note the side that faces up. To remove the old seal use a flat head screw driver to pry it out.

The new seal pushes down in to the impeller with the rubber touching the back of the impeller.

Connecting the motor to the plate then to the impeller:

When attaching the motor to the plate, the bottom of the plate is clearly marked. In this particular motor the capacitor sits on the unit’s top side. Press the plate and the motor together then insert and tighten the four bolts that connect the front of the motor to the back of the plate.

The new impeller screws on to the area in the front of the plate. Note that you may need to remove the screws on the back of the motor to stop the shaft from spinning, allowing you to better tighten impeller.

Screw back in the single screw to the center of the impeller again, remembering that this screw is reverse threaded (tighten counter clockwise).

Reattaching the wires to pump:

Remove the back cover from new motor if you have not already done so.

Screw the elbow connector in to the empty hole in the back of the motor. Because of the limited space, I also screwed in the nut on the inside of the pump while installing the elbow. If there is enough room, screw the nut into the inside of the motor to the elbow.

Push the wires in to the elbow and though to the motor. Once you can start to see the wires, you can gently pull each wire with the needle nose pliers to guide them though.

Once the wires are in, pull the conduit up to the elbow. Then, pull the collar up to the elbow and screw it on.

Some of the wires will need to be reshaped to attach to the pump. Reattach each wire just as you removed them. There four total wires (for a 220 setup) with two power lines, one ground and one common wire.

Reattach the panel/cover to the back of the motor.

Reconnecting the cone and ready the plate:

Attach the cone on to the front of the pump. The cone only fits on one way. Align the screw holes on the cone with the holes on the plate. Using the Allen wrench, tighten the two screws that hold it in place.

Although this next step is not required, it greatly helps. Apply some gasket maker to the grove around the front of the plate where the gasket will sit. This will create a better seal and help to hold the gasket down while placing the motor in to the pump.

Insert the new gasket into the plate. There is a groove on the plate for this gasket. Never reuse a old gasket; when opening the pump housing, always use a new gasket when reattaching the motor to the pump frame.

Connecting the motor to pump:

Push the motor into the pump frame cone first. Once they are pressed up against each other, insert the top two screws in to the back of the plate first to hold the motor upright. Attach all six screws. Only hand tighten first going clockwise; then, tighten clockwise again with the ratchet.

Reattach the bonding wire to the motor (if one is available).

If the gasket maker was used, allow 10-15 minutes for the gasket maker to set before testing the motor.

Turn back on the breakers and startup the motor.

If the pump will not start:

-recheck the breakers.

-Check your time clock options

-If still no power, the wiring needs to be rechecked.

-It is possible the new motor is defective. However, this should be your last guess.

A final note: Again if you are unsure about electrical wiring, hire a licensed professional to replace your pump. An improperly wired pump can destroy equipment, void your warranty and/or start an electrical fire.
Wine Country Pools & Supplies is not responsible for any damaged cause from the use of this walk through.

Hayward Pro-Grid DE filter system

2011-11-12T10:06:00.000-08:00

The following is a review of the Hayward Pro-Grid DE (Diatomaceous Earth) Filter System

The Pro-Grid filter system comes in sizes ranging from 36 to 72 sqft. The 48 sqft filter (Manufacture part
number DE4820) was used in this review.
(See this item on our site)

In The Box

The filter system comes almost completely assembled with the exception of the drain cap being unattached and in a bag with the user manual. The backwash valve is required and sold separately; we used a standard 2-inch pre-plumbed valve kit from Hayward (Manufacture part number SP0410X502S). Only if this filter is replacing another Hayward Pro-Grid with an existing working backwash valve is purchasing a new valve not needed.

The Guts

Using a common DE type configuration the unit contains eight filter grids (7 full sized and 1 partial) with a top manifold. The pressure gauge comes with built in markers to mark a clean filter level and alert the user when the system should be cleaned (this needs to be calibrated on first use). The air release is a twist type with a large opening allowing for a reasonable amount air to be released quickly.

One of the negative aspects of this filter that is not an immediate problem resides with the standard Hayward backwash valve that is used with this system. We have many Pro-Grid filters on our pool routes and see similar issues again and again with the backwash valve pistons. The point where the metal attaches to the plastic is its Achilles' heel as over time this becomes weak and warn down, causing the piston to break in the middle with the lower half suck in the shaft.

(Picture is from a Hayward ProGrid on our route, this type of damage is similar to what we see over time with these pistons)

The Setup and First Run

This Pro-Grid filter is almost twice the size of the StaRite system 2 cartridge filter that it is replacing. Attach the drain plug before doing anything else since once the filter is set in its final resting place ,reaching behind the unit could be difficult.

Inlet and outlet ports are only marked in the manuals, not physically on the filter itself so check that manual instead of guessing! Only two pipes had to be re-plumbed and connected to attach the new filter. This type of install should be simple for anyone with just basic plumbing knowledge.

The DE is not included and must be added to the system once the system is turned on.

Overall

While it may not be a great filter, the Hayward Pro-Grid series is a good all around filter with only one (yet glaring) negative. This series is priced comparably with other similar DE units and is even available in a larger 72 sq ft configuration that not all major manufactures offer. This would be rated higher had the backwash valve design was improved or if there existed a third party backwash valve that could be used with the system and didn’t have the same issues.

Pros

-Pressure gauge has built in markers for determining when the filter needs cleaning

-Air release is rugged, a nice change from the previously cheap systems

-Available in a 72 sq ft size

Cons

-Backwash valve sold separately

-Poorly designed backwash piston breaks easily
-Marking inlet/outlet ports on the filter would be nice

Final Score: 6/10
(See this item on our site)

MP Industries Flex-Vac Pro Vacuum Review

2011-10-30T09:48:00.000-07:00

The following is a review of the MP Industries Flex-Vac Pro Vacuum head.

The Flex-Vac Pro vacuum heads come in sizes ranging from 14 to 22 inches; the version we used for this review was the model MP-267 19-inch head (14 inch version pictured)

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In The Box

The vacuum head came almost completely assembled with everything attached except for the white cap used for hose connections that is placed on top and fits snug. Noticeably different from comparable units is the missing attachable rubber skirts on the bottom. Instead, the Flex-Vac Pro has built in soft, plastic skirts. The plastic of the frame is extended down in both the front and back to act as the skirts. This a welcome change since it is common for the rubber skirts to come loose and fall off or to get halfway off and sucked in to the vac line.

The Guts

The Flex-Vac Pro uses a metal swivel handle instead of plastic handles, which can easily be broken and warp from being weathered. The swivel works well when maneuvering the vacuum head underwater to the next area. The wheels are urethane ball bearing wheels. Traction is important since the alternative is sliding the entire unit around the bottom of the pool, making for un-straight lines. The frame is a soft, bendable plastic, with fins that allow the vacuum to form according to the pool's natural surface curves.

Overall

The Flex-Vac Pro Vacuum head has many of the features of professional grade heads at a lower cost. The built in skirt is a welcome addition. The metal swivel handle, urethane wheels, and flexible body make this unit on par with some of the more expensive vacuum heads.

Pros

Costs less than comparable professional series vacuum heads while keeping the same build quality
The bottom skirts are built in and don’t come loose like the removable rubber skirts
Metal handle and swivel
Urethane wheels that grip better then plastic

Cons

The top white cap often slips off when removing a hose from the units head
Removing hair or string caught in the wheels can be difficult because of the gap between the bearings and the upper/lower sections of each wheel

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Final Score: 8/10

Vac-Alert Industries: Vac-Alert Model VA-2000S

2011-10-22T12:51:00.000-07:00

Vac-Alert Industries: Vac-Alert Model VA-2000S

The following is a review of the Vac-Alert Safety Vacuum Release System (SVRS)

Note: A SVRS is a device designed to help prevent entrapments from suction lines in pools or spas. Every year, people are killed when they get to close too a suction line (usually main drains) Getting caught on one of these can hold someone underwater causing them to drown.. Some states now require public pools to have a SVRS attached to each pump in an attempt to save lives. Check your state and local laws to see if and how these would apply to you.

In The Box

In the box comes the Vac-Alert system, a key for adjusting vacuum sensitivity, the manual, a chart of example setups and a information video DVD.

The Setup and First Run

The SVRS attaches to an existing pump system via a PVC T connector (not included). For our setup, we used a 2 inch PVC T with an 1.5 inch to 2 inch adaptor since the SVRS device only accepts 1.5 inch pipe. On the example sheet, we used the first example as our guide for installation.

When any type of blockage occurs, the Vac-Alert is triggered and the system opens the suction side to atmosphere, causing the pump to lose prime. This should allow what caused the blockage to be dislocated. To reset the unit, there is a toggle switch that needs to be moved to the opposite position. It is very easy to test by simply blocking the one of the skimmer lines with a tennis ball or any other object that will block the flow of water. In our case the default setting worked so we did not need to adjust the unit.

The Guts
There is not much to take apart on the Vac-Alert. The bottom has a check valve connected by a quick release to stop any water from backing up in to the unit. The front screen is removable for cleaning or to push the unit to the open position (while the system is off). On the back of the unit there is a special screw only removable with the key that comes in the box. This back area is used to adjust the Vac-Alert sensitivity as needed.

Overall

The Vac-Alert system is one of the least expensive SVRS systems on the market. If price is an issue, this is a great SVRS for most situations. The installation and setup should only take an hour for most experienced pool or spa professionals. The SVRS is meant as a life saving device and while the average person with some plumbing experence can insall the unit, it should be installed by a professional to ensure everything is done correctly. A down side of the Vac-Alert would be its missing any auto restart function, this hurts its commercial uses since it has to consistently checked to insure the system has not mistakenly been triggered.

Pros:

- One of the least expensive SVRS systems on the market

- Easier to install then most other SVRSs

- Very few moving parts (less to go wrong)

- Easy to reset the system (especially if support needs to be done over the phone)

Cons:

- Because of the unit's ease of installation,one might be tempted to skip parts of the manual and unknowingly install the unit incorrectly.

- The unit can be set off from a temporary blockage (pool sweep passing over a drain, leaves collecting in a skimmer basket, etc). This will cause the pump to stop and will not restart until someone manually resets the system. This model will not automatically reset as some of the other electric SVRS models will (i.e. the Pentair Intillflo SVRS).

Final Score: 7/10

Pool Vergnuegen: The Pool Cleaner

2011-10-21T08:21:00.000-07:00

Pool Vergnuegen: The Pool Cleaner

The following is review of the two wheel white Pool Cleaner made by Pool Vergnuegen.

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In the Box

The two wheel “Pool Cleaner” comes with 9 regular white hoses, 1 white leader hose with 2 floats attached, a wall flap (water gate), hose cone (for attaching to the skimmer), and a regulator valve (also just for skimmer attachment). The cleaner connects to the pool system like most other automatic cleaners. Just attach the amount of hoses needed (which was nine in my case). There should be enough hose to reach the farthest section of the pool. The free end of the hose can be attached to either the built in pool cleaner port on the side of the pool if it has one or directly in the skimmer with the extra attachments.

The Setup and First Run

In our setup, we used the built in wall connection that was placed near the middle of the pool. Once everything was connected and the pump was turned on, the cleaner had no problem sucking up leaves, grass, and dirt from the surfaces of the pool. Because of how the gears are set, the unit will occasionally turn 90 to 180 degrees to try and reach the entire pool area. The wheels each have a knob that help lift the cleaner if it gets stuck on a drain. It easily crawls up the sides, almost a little too well. When the unit comes up the sides it will hit the water line where it will stay sucking air until the pump loses pressure causing the cleaner to fall back in to the water to wait for the system to re-prime and continue moving.

The Guts

To open the pool cleaner, just remove the four screws on the top side. The unit works by a variety of gears slowly turning the wheels powered by a center turbine, which is pushed by rushing water. Two floats on the cleaner hose help to keep the cleaner in an upright position while moving on the floor.

Overall

This is one of the best automatic pool cleaners available on the market. I would go as far to say it is on the same level with the much loved Hayward Navigator. While the Pool Cleaner has its strengths and weaknesses, the good far outweigh the bad.

Pros:

-Even with low suction, the unit moves around easily.

-Easy to clear if something gets jammed in the main turbine.

-Does an excellent job of picking up dirt and debris form the bottom and sides of the pool.

Cons:

- Runs up the wall and comes out of the water to create a strange sucking sound.

- The plastic skirts seem to come off over time and somehow get lost in the pool.

- The knobs on the wheels will only last a few months before being warn down

Final Score: 8/10

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Pentair IntelliFlo VS+SVRS Review

2011-10-11T21:06:00.000-07:00

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Wiring the Intelliflo VS+SVRS

Wiring the pump for 220 is standard, just two hot and a ground wired to a 220 fuse set in the fuse box. No surprises or complications.

Programming the Intelliflo VS+SVRS

Programming is a little strange at first but quite easy to figure out. The times and speeds are programmed under the “Speed 1-8” -> “Schedules”. I have found the best schedule is 2 hours on high (2800) to move the pool cleaner and 6 hours on low speed (1100) just to move the water.

Variable speed software wise, Pentair is a generation ahead of Hayward. While the Pentair menus do have a learning curve on deciphering their menus (keep the menu tree from the manuals close in the beginning), it all comes together nicely in the end.

Other menu options include setting the pump priming time, anti freeze, and timeout settings.

VS is short for Variable Speed. The pump speed can be set anywhere between 1100RPM to 3450RPM. One of the benefits of this pump is that it is a variable speed pump. Pentair estimates on the low end, a power savings of $620 to $1240 a year. This is due to a more efficient design (magnets instead of large coils) and the pump's ability to run at lower speeds and still move water effectively. The Intelliflo is also noticeably quieter compared to the old 1hp pump this replaced.

SVRS

As part of the Virginia Graeme Baker Safety Act certain safety precautions have to be in place to be considered compliant. there are other parts of the act, including drain requirements, replacing the pump is a simple way of meeting some of these requirements for equipment entrapment prevention. Being in VGB compliance and saving money with a variable speed pump (compared to single and two speed pumps) is good way of killing two birds with one stone.

Overall

The Intelliflo VS+SVRS was easy to install and setup. This is great as a replacement or upgrade of a current pump. Just keep the manual close to the pump since it is easy to get lost in the menu tree.

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Final Score: 9/10

Pentair Sun Touch and Quick Touch 4 remote

2011-09-28T19:28:00.000-07:00

Added the Pentair Sun Touch and Quick Touch 4 remote to our retail site.

The Pentair Sun Touch Automatic Pool Control System

The version that we are selling comes with the controller, two actuators (for changes valves from pool and spa returns/suction) and two temperature sensors (one for air and one for water). This works with most pumps and heaters including the Intelliflow variable speed pump.
It is easy to wire however, Pentair has their own way of thinking when it comes to programming a pool system. After a small learning curve to learn their thought process it is easy to program the system.
The system gets high marks for simplicity but loses points for its awkward programing structure.
Final score: 7/10
See the Sun Touch system on our site

The Quick Touch 4 button remote

While it is nice to have the system on a digital timer with push button controls, having a remote to control the system is even better.
The installation is a breeze to setup, just 4 wires go from the antenna to the Sun Touch system. Each of the 4 buttons on the remote can be programed to perform any regular function from Sun Touch menu system. ie 1 = spa mode with heater, 2 = pool on, 3 = pool lights on, 4 = spa light on.
This is a very basic remote, there only 4 buttons, there is no LCD screen or any other status lights so there is no way to tell if the system received the command from the remote you just pushed without actually checking the pool/spa for movement.
High marks for simplicity, loses points for only 4 buttons and no status screen/lights.
Final score: 7/10
See the Quick Touch 4 on our site

First

2011-09-25T10:08:00.000-07:00

I will try to post updates for our site www.winecountrypoolsonline.com here about the following
New products
Sales
New videos
New images
Site changes.
and more